Is there a waistcoat in your wardrobe that you don’t wear as often as you’d like to? Our men’s style guide gives you the info you need to know when it comes to how to wear a waistcoat.

What is a waistcoat?

You probably already know exactly what a waistcoat is, but just in case you don’t here’s the lowdown. It’s a sleeveless jacket-style top that’s worn on the upper body, it usually buttons up at the front and sometimes has an adjustable strap at the back for the perfect fit. Think Gareth Southgate’s famous World Cup waistcoat style, men’s 3 piece suits and the stereotypical English country gent style.

Most people think of waistcoats for more formal events like parties, formal dinners, and work events. It lets you layer up, experiment with different fabrics and finishes and can help to pull together your formal attire. You can even make your waistcoat into a statement piece that boosts a simpler suit. Originally waistcoats were created as formal wear to be worn under a coat.

However, waistcoats aren’t just for formal events, they’re much more popular for daily wear than ever before. Wearing a more casual waistcoat for drinks, dates and dinner is a great way to hit the spot between dressed up and dressed down. Not sure about the weather? A waistcoat means you can layer up and still look stylish without too much effort, especially if you choose linen and wool blends or a cotton waistcoat.

What types of waistcoats are there?

If you’re thinking that a waistcoat is a pretty straightforward item of clothing, then we’ll give you that. They’re easy to wear, work for almost every occasion and tend to be easy to fit. But just because it’s simple doesn’t mean that you can’t choose your perfect style. Let’s look at some of the waistcoat styles that you need to know about.

Tweed waistcoat

A men’s tweed waistcoat is the ultimate country gent style but it doesn’t have to be stuffy. It’s exactly what it sounds like, a traditional-looking waistcoat made from tweed fabric like herringbone or Donegal tweed. You can either go all-in on tweed and match it to your suit for a retro look or you can contrast your waistcoat with your suit for a more modern take on a classic style. The choice is completely up to you!

Try a lighter, modern tweed blend to lift your look so that it feels easier to wear whilst still looking the part. It’ll still be an extra layer for your outfit, and one that can make a huge difference to a plainer suit style. Tweed is a great way to give a nod to heritage fabrics and styles but with a more up to date take on the look.

Single-breasted waistcoat

Like a single-breasted suit, a single-breasted waistcoat is a style of waistcoat that comes with a single row of 6-7 buttons with a small overlap. It’s easier to close than double-breasted styles and is usually seen as a more casual waistcoat style. This is the one to wear for more low-key events that don’t have a formal dress code.

Style your single-breasted waistcoat with jeans, chinos, suit or relaxed trousers and a shirt in a contrasting (or matching) style for a contemporary layered look. Matching your waistcoat and suit is a more formal and dressed up take on the look, but wear whatever you feel comfortable in and whatever works for the occasion.

Double-breasted waistcoat

A double-breasted waistcoat has two rows of buttons that line up on each side. They usually have 3 or 4 buttons in each row for a more formal, dressed up style than single-breasted waistcoats. This is a more common style to match up with a suit, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t have a little fun with it or that you can’t make it into a more casual waistcoat.

Wear your double-breasted waistcoat with a suit or shirt that contrasts to lift your formal style. If you want to dress it down with a more casual outfit, don’t let the double-breasted style stop you – it can look just as good with jeans, chinos or a more casual style. Keep your waistcoat buttoned up to show off the style, shape and structure of it as you layer.

Horseshoe waistcoat

A horseshoe waistcoat is a waistcoat with a low-cut neckline design that was traditionally worn as an evening style with a dinner suit. The neckline was made in this low-cut style to show off the bib of a formal, traditional shirt. It’s also known as a ‘bow’ or ‘U-shape’ waistcoat, but horseshoe is its more common name, and it comes in a range of different fabrics and finishes.

This style of waistcoat has become more popular in recent years and has moved away from being solely evening or formal wear. It means you can show off your shirt and tie and works well for a wedding style, especially for fashion-conscious, modern weddings. Make your tie into more of a feature with a tie bar or clip and a formal shirt.

Other types of waistcoat

There are a few other styles of waistcoat that are variations on the main styles of waistcoat that are out there. A waistcoat with a lapel features a lapel at the neckline of the waistcoat. It can come in different lapel styles like notch, peak and shawl. Some waistcoats even feature a contrasting lapel made from a different material or colour for those who want a more adventurous style.

Another option is a cloth-backed waistcoat, which is a waistcoat that has the same material on the back of the waistcoat and the front. Traditionally, you wouldn’t see the back of a waistcoat as it’d be covered with a suit which is why more formal styles have a back made from lining for a smoother fit under a suit.

How should a waistcoat fit?

Ideally, your waistcoat should be fitted and snug on the body. You don’t want it to be so tight that you feel uncomfortable and restricted – you don’t want to worry about losing a button if you move too quickly! Keep it comfy, smooth and form-fitting without any pulling or loose parts around the armpit, remember you can always adjust the back strap. If it doesn’t fit properly and you’re wearing it as part of a suit, then it can affect how your jacket sits.

You want your waistcoat to be long enough in the body too. You don’t want to be able to see your shirt between your trousers and waistcoat, ideally, you want it to drop an inch or so below your trouser waistband if it’s single-breasted and just below your waistband for double-breasted.

How to wear a waistcoat

How you wear your waistcoat is totally up to you. Your personal style, your favourite colour palette and the event you’re headed to should help you choose the right waistcoat but how you wear it is your call. Discover your style in our collection of waistcoats.