Archive for October, 2018

Fabric focus: Donegal

Meet Donegal – tweed’s city-living cousin.

 

Meet Donegal – tweed’s city-living cousin.

So why are we talking about Donegal? Well, now that tweed is no longer reserved for days out shooting with a springer spaniel for company, it’s made its way from national parks to the nation’s cities. That’s good news for anyone who wants to go for a Peaky Blinder look. But if tweed still feels a bit too rustic for you, try Donegal: a simpler version of tweed that looks as at home in the city as it does in the countryside.

 

 

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DONEGAL AND TWEED?

Partly, the difference comes down to their histories. Donegal is Irish, whereas the traditional tweed you’re probably more familiar with is Scottish.

Both are rough woollen fabrics crafted using strong weaves. They’re designed to be warm and practical for outdoor activities – exactly what you need in the harsh Irish and Scottish winters.

But it’s the weave that gives Donegal its distinct look. Unlike Scottish tweed, it doesn’t have a pattern. Instead, it’s textured with different coloured yarns woven together to create a flecked finish.

 

 

WHAT IS DONEGAL MADE FROM?

Historically, Donegal was made from pure wool dyed using local plants, like gorse, blackberries, fuchsia and moss, but you can now get it with a blend of man-made textiles, such as polyester. It’s generally a bit softer than classic tweed because the fibres are finer, but it still has a rugged look thanks to the textured weave.

Most Donegal fabrics made today are still wool-rich, so they’re warm and breathable – which makes them great for the middle of winter when you have a commute to face or an event with sketchy central heating.

 

 

HOW TO WEAR A DONEGAL SUIT

For a contemporary take on this heritage fabric, choose a Donegal three-piece suit in a muted colour and keep your styling streamlined. It’ll look best paired with a more casual shirt – something with a textured or brushed finish that’ll sit comfortably with your suit’s rugged handle. Wear it open-necked for a more relaxed look. As far as accessories go, a silk pocket square will give just enough contrast in texture while rich hues like burgundy or brown leather shoes will bring out your Donegal’s earthy feel.

Posted October 23rd, 2018 in Expertise.

How to dress like an Italian

A lesson in Italian style.

Man dressed in Italian style Moss Bros navy suit with polka-dotted pocket square and a grey patterned jumper.

HOW TO DRESS LIKE AN ITALIAN

A LESSON IN ITALIAN STYLE

Hear ‘made in Italy’ and you’ll likely think of quality, craftsmanship and style. And you’d be right. Think of the Italian style, however, and it all becomes harder to pin down. There’s a distinct look to the way Italian men dress, but it’s less about concrete style rules and more about how they approach putting it all together.

English speakers don’t have a word that quite captures it, but the Italians do sprezzatura. It’s all about being artfully undone. About being perfectly imperfect. About looking immaculate, but also looking like it was no effort at all.

Sounds tricky to pull off, but there are a few ways we non-natives can add a little Italian flair to our wardrobes.

Italian man in Barberis suit with grid pattern in grey and a navy denim shirt with tan braces.

APPRECIATE THE FINER THINGS

Italians are known for their love of the finer things in life. Opera. Coffee. Shoes. All are revered and given due time to perfect and savour. The same can be said of their cloth. Fabric mill Vitale Barberis Canonico has spent over 350 years of honing its craft and, as a result, is held in the highest regard by the world’s leading tailors.

As with anything else that’s stuck around for centuries, it’s less about trends and more about timeless style. Take the Barberis suit shown above. Yes, this is a checked cloth, and yes, that is very much a thing at the moment. But the grid pattern is modest in scale – not too big, not too small – and the colours are muted. It’s really all about the fabric – this one’s made from super 120s wool in a brushed flannel finish.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Italian style without a little flourish. Something that’s just a little ‘off’. Perhaps a denim-look shirt against an elegant wool suit. Or an unexpected flash of bright red braces underneath? Bravissimo.

Man in Italian-style pinstripe suit and red and cream tie. His shirt is a light denim and he is holding a leather duffel bag over his left shoulder.

MAKE FORMAL LESS FORMAL

Where traditional British tailoring is perhaps more buttoned-up, Italian style is all about artful undone-ness. One way to do this is to take something typically very formal and loosen it up a little.

Pinstripe is a very traditional pattern – straight out of Saville Row, in fact – but in the Italian’s hands, it’s brought down a peg or two with natural shoulders, a slightly more relaxed construction and a simple notch lapel.

Of course, it still needs to be made from exceptional cloth. From one of Italy’s most prestigious mills, Ermenegildo Zegna cloth is up there with the best cloth in the world. This suit’s cloth has been tightly spun from the finest Australian wool for a smooth handle, expensive-looking lustre and enhanced elasticity that helps it resist creasing.

Because even if Italian style is about looking like no effort, it also never looks anything less than faultless.

Man in Italian knitted merino jumper. He is wearing round glasses and looking to his left.

INVEST IN GOOD BASICS

Any Italian man worth his styling salt knows a great wardrobe is built around good foundations. In other words? Put as much thought into your layering pieces as you do the big guns like suits and coats.

A smart knitted jumper is a very useful piece in the well-dressed Italian wardrobe – after all, cold weather isn’t going to get in the way of great style. But it can’t just be any old knit. Firstly, it needs to fit like a glove – not too tight, but absolutely not loose either.  A fine-gauge knit will achieve a relaxed drape, rather than a try-hard cling. Secondly, it needs to be made from the finest wool. For our knitwear this season, we’ve gone to Italy and sourced Merino wool for its natural ability to regulate temperature and its luxuriously smooth handle.

It doesn’t matter if you wear it alone, under a suit or over a shirt; the beauty of an Italian wool knit is it’ll look good, feel soft and take a relaxed look up a notch with very little effort at all.

Posted October 18th, 2018 in Style.

A guide to super wool

 

Everything you need to know about super wool.

When does a 100% wool suit become a ‘super 100s wool’ suit? And aren’t they the same thing, anyway? While both promise a fabric that’s made completely from wool, only one points to the quality of the wool fibres and how the material actually feels.

Because the world of wool is one of the most specialised industries going, it comes with loads of technical terms. Super wool falls into this category and understanding how the grading system works for wool will help you choose a suit that ticks every box. Here’s what you need to know.

 

 

WHAT IS SUPER WOOL?

After a sheep has been shorn, its wool is looked at under a microscope to judge how thick the fibres are. Thickness is measured by microns – one micron is 1,000,000th of a metre – and super 100s wool has to be at least 18.5 microns.

Raw wool is graded based on this thickness – the finer the fibre, the higher the grade. Grades range from around 70 to 200, and anything above 100 is notably fine and smooth. Seriously high grades pushing the super 160s mark are ultra luxurious – but also much more rare with high price tags to match.

 

 

WHICH WOOL GRADE IS BEST TO WEAR WHEN?

It’s easy to think you should look for the highest grade wools to get the best quality, but each grade has its plus points.

Medium grades between 70 to 90 are great quality but still robust enough to remain durable. If you wear a suit every day, those made from medium grade wool will stand the test of time. High grades between 100 to 120 are fine, soft and give a really polished look, but they do need a bit more care and attention than lower grades. Wear yours to impress at a client dinner, a party or on a date, but best not to risk it on the daily commute. Very high grades of anything above 130 are extremely fine, but they are much more delicate and likely to wear on pressure points like the knees and elbows. A suit this luxurious is going to need a good amount of TLC, so save it for when something extra special is required.

 

 

When you’ve gone all out with a super wool suit, you want to be able to wear it time and time again. And with the right care, there’s no reason why you can’t.

  • GO EASY ON THE DRY CLEANING – between one and three times a year is enough for a super wool suit because the chemicals will deteriorate the fibres over time. Try waiting until there’s a stain on it.
  • INVEST IN A GENTLE WOOL BRUSH – lightly brushing down your suit after you’ve worn it will help you keep it spotless between visits to the dry cleaners.
  • AIR AFTER WEAR – this will help keep it smelling fresh in between washes.
  • USE BIG CEDAR HANGERS – the wood will absorb moisture from the suit after you’ve worn it and the robust width will support the shoulders to help it keep its shape.
  • STORE IN A BAG – as it’s such a top quality natural wool, some insects will find it very tempting. A bag should help keep them at bay. Cedar blocks can also help, but avoid mothballs unless you want to smell like one.

Posted October 5th, 2018 in Expertise.

4 autumn wedding buttonhole ideas

 

Details matter – especially on your big day.

And if anyone knows the impact the little details can have, it’s wedding stylist Rachel Emma. She creates bespoke wedding stationery, decorations and other big-day details like contemporary buttonholes, so we asked her for her take on four autumn wedding trends and the accessories you need to set them off.

 

I’ll let you into a secret: autumn and winter weddings are becoming my favourites. I love the excuse to use rich tones and a bit of sparkle. But autumn and winter weddings can also rely too much on stereotypical themes (dry leaves and Christmas trees anyone?). Don’t worry, it’s not all about pumpkins and evergreens anymore, I promise. Here, I’m sharing some hot wedding trends for autumn/winter 2018 weddings, and how to translate those into your suit and buttonhole for the big day in a way that’s stylish – not cheesy.

 

 

MODERN CITY

Bring a bit of nature back into the city with a lush greenery theme. Greenery is still a huge trend in weddings in 2018, and it looks especially impressive in a sleek urban environment. It also transitions well for winter weddings – think oversized garlands of laurels and huge wreaths. Avoid festive colours if you’re not keen on a Christmas theme, and instead go for blues and teals for a cooler look. Anemones are a great choice for florals, as they bloom from November to April, and they look amazing nestled in among lots of greenery. Your suit styling for this look should be stylish and sleek. This blue lounge suit teamed with an anemone and fern buttonhole will fit the bill perfectly.

 

 

EVENING GLAMOUR

Nothing says glamour in a winter wedding quite like a celestial theme. Navy blues, mixed metallics, sparkling details and constellation patterns are the (ahem) stars of this trend and make for a gorgeous and opulent atmosphere. A tuxedo is a must for this theme, but why not go for a textured navy blue instead of the traditional black? Pin on one of these rose gold and peacock feather buttonholes to complete the look.

 

 

RUSTIC

Rustic weddings have been around for years, but there are ways to bring the trend bang up to date. Bring in metallics, contemporary shapes and shots of colour to elevate the look. Paired with a tweed jacket, this copper paper buttonhole design does rustic in a modern way that’ll have your guests nodding in approval (and maybe a bit of jealousy).

 

 

CLASSIC

Warm tones are a staple for autumn weddings, but for an unexpected take why not introduce some peach and coral tones? These vivid shades are the perfect throwback to late summer and make a refreshing change to typically rich autumnal palettes. For this classic wedding look with a twist, opt for a charcoal grey morning suit with pops of peach in a cravat and pocket square. Add a blush pink paper peony buttonhole with a tiny flash of silver and you’re good to go.

 

Rachel Emma makes beautiful details and environments for weddings and happy days. She loves helping couples let their personalities shine through on their wedding day. Follow her on Instagram @rachelemmastudio or visit rachelemmastudio.com

Posted October 1st, 2018 in Hire-Weddings.