Three outfit ideas for autumn wedding guests.

WHAT TO WEAR TO AN AUTUMN WEDDING

THEIR BIG DAY, YOUR CHANCE TO UP YOUR GAME

• WORDS: C. STEWART

RUSTIC DONEGAL

SURFACE TEXTURE

SOMETHING BLUE

Your suit lapels say more about you than you might think. Should you wear a notch, peak or shawl? That depends on the occasion, and we’ve got you covered with a quick overview of each style.

NOTCH LAPELS – THE STANDARD ONES

Most single-breasted suits and blazers have notch lapels. They’re the standard ones you’re most used to seeing around, especially if you’re shopping for a classic suit to wear to work. The notch looks like a sideways ‘v’ where the collar meets the lapel, with a visible gap in the fabric.

Why are these the most standard ones? Quite simply, they’re the easiest for tailors to make. And it means they have an understated look that’s a bit more relaxed than others. Still, they’re pretty smart, so choose a jacket with notch lapels when you’ve got to make a great first impression at an interview, or if you want to be a modest wedding guest. Every man should have at least one smart jacket with a notch lapel – it’s a staple.

If you want to slim down your chest and shoulders, notch lapels are the ones to go for.

PEAK LAPELS – THE DRESSED-UP ONES

Here’s where things get a bit more interesting. These are fancier lapels that make more of a style statement than standard notch lapels. The bottom edge of each lapel points upwards and the peak sits higher up on the shoulder.

Peak lapels first came about in France back in the 16^th century when Louis XIV’s was king – hence the fanciness. They’re not the easiest of lapels to make, so they were generally reserved for tails and morning coats. But when fashion had a refresh in the 1920s, tailors started adding peak lapels to more casual jackets, making them much more popular for the everyday.

They’re not just reserved for special occasions anymore. Wear a suit with peak lapels when you want to stand out at work or raise your game at a dressed-up party.

And where notch lapels slim the chest, peak lapels broaden the shoulders.

SHAWL LAPELS – THE REALLY FANCY ONES

The only place you’ll normally see shawl lapels is on a dinner jacket. They have no break in the fabric – just a single piece of material that gets narrower as it reaches the buttons in a sweeping curve.

First seen on Victorian smoking jackets, shawl lapels are definitely more play than business. Today, they’re only really at home at black tie events. If you wear one, you’re likely to wear a bow tie too, but it’s not a faux pas to wear a normal tie.

You’ll often find shawl lapels are made from a material that contrasts with the rest of the jacket, like a black lapel on a wine-red background. If there is a contrast, the buttons usually match the lapel, and the idea is to match your tie to the same colour.

Guest post: 5 terms to ask your barber about

You know what they say – knowledge is power. So to make the outside of your head smarter, you should start by making the inside of your head smarter. With that in mind, Gavin Hoare of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa is back to help you brush up on the terms you need to know to get the haircut you want.

Let’s talk hair terms.

When I was in my early teens my Mum would drag me to the local barber in Croydon’s Surrey Street Market and I’d point to a picture on the wall and get something that basically resembled the outdated images before me. Thank the gods that these days are long gone. Today, there is more choice of where to grab a cut than ever before and thankfully I now have a clear idea of what I want from my hair and the people that I choose to cut it.

This said, in 2017, the terminology used in everyday men’s hair grooming can leave you feeling that you need an interpreter accompanying you when you are playing around with the style stakes.  To make sure you get the best from your cutting chair experience, here are my top five men’s hairdressing terms to help you as you strive for groomed perfection.

This look is achieved using hair clippers to fade out hair smoothly from longer on the top to varying degrees of skin around the ears and nape of the neck. These styles work well for all hair textures and are low maintenance, but are best for men who want a short, clean outline while working with various lengths through the top lengths.

Tapered hair is a softer variation of the fade, with the length of the hair gradually layered down from the top to the nape of the neck and through the sides. It can be done with both hair clippers and scissors, often in a technique known as ‘scissor over comb’. It gives you more flexibility in styling choices while still giving you that groomed look and finish.

The term ‘texturising’ means cutting into the hair, either to thin hair out that’s thick or course in texture or to create the illusion of depth and thickness in thinner, finer hair. The technique can be achieved in different ways, either with specialised cutting scissors or freehand cutting, where your stylist or barber chips into your hair varying the lengths within the outline of the style. In both thicker or finer hair, the end result works best when worked through with styling product such as clay or wax. 

Hair that is undercut is usually clipped away around the back and/or the sides leaving longer layers through the top. The crimper removes some bulk from the hair, so the hair can sit more neatly or have more movement.

A disconnected haircut demonstrates a strong difference in the lengths of hair. Probably not the finest disconnect moment, but the traditional mullet would be a great example. In 2017 the disconnected cut has a much edgier feel, leaving layers longer through the top. The undercut would also fall under this title but a disconnected cut may have a more distinct feel being left softer around the edges and baselines.

Gavin Hoare is the manager of a team of 95 staff at Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa, a super salon based in the heart of London’s Chelsea. He also travels all over Europe on behalf of the Richard Ward salon with L‘Oréal as a consultant and educator, making guest artist appearances and delivering master classes at international hair shows. With a career spanning over 35 years, there’s not a lot he doesn’t know about male grooming, what’s hot and what’s not and how today’s men are keeping up with their female contemporaries.

How to fix up, fast.

THE TAILORING HACKS YOU NEED TO KNOW

SIX WAYS TO FIX UP, FAST

1. ROLL WITH IT

2. GET PACKING

3. GIVE IT SOME AIR

4. TWIN YOUR TROUSERS

5. BUTTON UP TO SAVE YOUR SHIRT

6. MAKE IT YOURS

Suit up for a 3-day business trip

In the first of a new series, we’ve asked our in-store Tailoring Experts to give their styling advice for specific occasions you’ll need to suit up for. First up: David Durney, from our Savoy Taylors Guild store in Kildare, talks us through what you should pack to stay looking sharp for a 3-day business trip.

Every business trip is a chance to impress so you want to ensure your first impression is your best.

For all professions, young and old, the business trip is the perfect opportunity to show off your sartorial prowess while maintaining a professional image.

Before even thinking about colour combinations and accessories, the most important thing to determine is your size and the right fit for you. Nothing will damage your image more than an ill-fitting suit. Most importantly, ensure the jacket fits in the shoulders and chest – everything else can be adjusted with some light tailoring.

When it comes to business suits, the two default colours are navy blue and charcoal. Both are highly versatile colours that are interchangeable with nearly any colour combination. It’s best to opt for a 3-piece in both of these. The option of the waistcoat gives you another outfit to play around with and in many cases packing one 3-piece can take the place of two different 2-piece suits.

Don’t be afraid to mix things up with a statement suit such as a pinstripe or a check. Gone are the days of conformity in the office so a business trip is a great opportunity to show off that extra bit of individuality.

A high-quality navy sports coat is a great rotation option both for a business trip and everyday use. Paired with a pair of indigo jeans or smart chinos and you’ll look suitably smart for any business-casual setting. This is ideal for those lunch meetings you may have with clients where a 3-piece suit would feel too formal.

Make sure to use your accessories to your advantage. One suit can look vastly different with by varying your shirt, tie and shoe combinations.

White and light blue shirts are a staple in any man’s wardrobe and will look crisp and professional in any combination, however, don’t be afraid of the more vibrant colours or patterns. Pink with navy is a combination that most men shy away from but the correct tones can be a striking but great look. A gingham check is a fantastic alternative to the plain colours, too.

Another great way to add a splash of colour to your outfit is with your ties. Don’t shy away from the less frequently used colours that can make your suit really pop. Think of greens, yellows and reds rather than your standard blues, greys and blacks

If these colours are too bold for you a good solid navy tie will look good with any outfit, perhaps a slight pattern to add interest. A classic finishing touch to any suit is the pocket square. This is where a lot of people try to show off a bit of personality and flair, however, a simple white cotton or linen pocket square will add a sophisticated finish to any suit.

And finally, the first thing most people will notice about you is your shoes so make sure they anchor your outfit while complementing your overall look. Monk straps will add a stylish touch to any suit they’re paired with while loafers are great to add some formality to a more casual look. A dark brown colour way is the safest bet to ensure your shoes complement your outfit.

As the new season well and truly kicks in, we’re taking the Suit Up revolution up a gear.

Now’s not the time to simply fall in line. Say no to the same-old suit and push yourself to be a little bolder. The days might be getting greyer but, if you ask us, that’s all the more reason to take a few sartorial risks and make your unique mark in standout suiting and adventurous patterns.

Need some inspiration? Step up Matt Lister: former GB athlete, LGBT Ambassador and frontman of our campaign, leading the Suit Up charge in the battle against boring.

We talked with Matt about making bold moves, standing up for what you believe in and being brave enough to be yourself.

MB: As a former world-class canoeist, how did you step up to the mark when it mattered?

ML: I found the most powerful tool at my disposal was mental imagery or visualisation. Sat on the start line I would get the shakes and the butterflies, a sensation that never changed throughout my career, and one I never seemed to get used to. But to counter it, I would visualise in my head (in real time) exactly what we had planned to do on the gates that were on the course ahead of us. It’s so calming and even with all the craziness going on around you, it suddenly becomes easy to block out. The last thing I would do would be to splash my face around 30 seconds before we started and tap my paddle on my helmet a couple of times to wake myself up. 

MB: How did you get into canoeing? How did you take it from a hobby to a professional level?

ML: My sister Charlotte had gotten involved after taking part in an outward-bound course. I was jealous she was doing something I wasn’t doing so I demanded I went along as well. For the first few years, I would just mess around at the sessions. I was naturally talented at canoeing, but with no goals, I had nothing to focus myself on. I was told I either took part and did something with it or I couldn’t come back because I was a distraction to the others. 

My club put me into a grassroots scheme called ‘paddle power’ where you would take part in all disciplines of canoeing. Slalom was one of the ones I began to win at low division races very quickly, it grabbed my interest and after around a year of competing in kayak I had reached the top division and was scouted by the British Canoeing team. After a couple of years I was on the podium as a junior, an under 23, and then as a senior, and racing internationally around the world. 

MB: It sounds like you’re used to pushing yourself out of your comfort zone – how does it make you feel when you do?

ML: I used to hate it, until I came out to my friends, family and teammates as gay. I got this unbelievable rush of adrenaline from pushing myself way beyond what I thought I was capable of doing or being at the time. Now I love to push myself and test my limits. More recently that has come with travelling the world, experiencing new cultures, learning a lot more about myself and who I am as I go along as well. 

MB: What’s the boldest thing you’ve ever done?

ML: I’m not sure which holds higher bold points. One: I jumped out of an aeroplane… twice in 2 weeks! Travelling in Australia with my boyfriend, we skydived in Brisbane and the Whitsundays. I’m petrified of heights, and even though I knew what it would be like to do it a second time, I was so keen to test myself. But, two: I went to see SpiceGirls SpiceWorld at the cinema when I was 6 years old… dressed as Posh Spice. Weave, heels, makeup, dress, the lot! Bold? Haha.

MB: Tell us about your role as LGBT Ambassador for the British Athletes Commission? 

ML:  The role was the first LGBT Ambassador role ever put in place by a players association. It began as something to show support and give a voice to LGBT athletes to be represented. But since taking on the role I have been to speak at schools to kids about my experiences as an athlete and coming out (all mostly very positive experiences I must say!). I’ve also been to companies to speak to their employees, taken part in panel discussions at huge events for publications such as The Economist, and spoken at the Council Of Europe about where I believe we are yet to go with LGBT athlete support. 

MB: At Moss we champion tailoring as a means to make a man feel great. What do you champion or stand for in your role as LGBT Ambassador?

ML: You do you boo, every time. There’s no right or wrong path for anyone in this world, we all have to make mistakes to better ourselves and move forward. I feel I lost years of truly living my life when I was in the closet, because I was hiding who I really was from everybody, not only did I steal that time from myself, but I stole it from my family and close friends, some who never really got to know the real me. Life can be an incredible journey, but it can be over in an instant. Try never to take things for granted. Live life to the full every day.

MB: How does what you wear change how you present yourself to the world?

ML: As an athlete, it was a rare occasion for me to swap my minging sweaty canoe kit or my team tracksuit for a suit and tie. I was so proud to wear the Union Jack on my sleeve at competitions, and now I’m proud to slip on a cracking suit for events where I’m representing LGBT athletes across the country. It makes me feel powerful, like a suit of armour, and when you look the part, you can turn heads easier and make people listen and hear.

MB: How do you show your style and personality if you need to dress formally as part of your role?

ML:  I guess even when I’m invited to attend black tie events, I try to make my suits a little sporty or ‘athlete chic’, which in my head is basically dressing it down slightly. I love a suit, sneakers and t-shirt combo. Oh, and the suit has to fit like a glove. I like it tailored to within an inch of its life!

GO FOR BOLD

How to make your mark

The Suit Up revolution is all about making your mark in the world. That means standing out, being yourself and showing the world what you’re about.

How do you do that? We think dressing sharply is a great place to start – a well-cut suit says your somebody, not just anybody.
But a boldly patterned suit, tailored to fit your shape and style perfectly? Now that’s the mark of somebody worth noticing.

Our Suit Up frontman, former GB canoeist Matt Lister, knows all about being his best self in the spotlight. Case in point: here he is in this month’s Attitude magazine showcasing style he made distinctly his own with our Custom Made service.

We’ve said it before, but we think it’s worth repeating: caring about the details is the mark of a great man. Great, then, that Tailor Me lets you be as picky as you want with the styling details that make your suit all your own. From lapels to pockets, to linings to turn-ups and personal monograms – your customisation options are endless.

Matt opted for a 3-piece, 1-button suit crafted from a luxurious pure wool cloth in a boxy black and white check. A classic pattern, with just the right amount of attitude to stand out in a crowd.

He let the cloth’s graphic pattern do the talking by pairing it simply with peak lapels, white buttons, slanted pockets and a just a single burst of colour in an aubergine lining. He also chose a skinny fit block and had it tailored to fit his athletic build.

Read the full feature in the August issue of Attitude magazine.

Photography: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa

How to suit up for the office

With workwear this good, you’ll be glad that Monday morning’s come quickly.

If you wear a suit to work, you’ll be well aware of the challenge of keeping things professional without losing your sense of style. What you wear plays a big part in how other people perceive you, and a sharp suit is your simplest way to show you mean business, but that’s not to say you can’t have a little fun with what you wear too.

We asked suit-lover Jake, The Debonair, to show us how suits up for the office. As a former barman now spending his days in the marketing world, he knows all about dressing for the job you’ve got – and the one you want. As he says: “…just because you’re an executive, doesn’t mean you can’t dress like a CEO”.

Read how he styled his office look below and see the full story over on his blog.

“For work, I suited up a skinny fit 3-piece made from eye-catching, charcoal, windowpane fabric, adding a navy-blue knitted tie and white pocket square. Blue, white and grey is a no-brainer combination – you can trust that it will always work, especially if you have to get ready in a rush.

The shirt itself is from the Moss collection. It’s slim-fit, white and basket-woven, crafted from 100% cotton. The luxurious quality is easy to iron and the single-button cuff and classic collar make it a proper no-fuss option. Perfect for those early starts.”

“The key to a great work suit is its versatility when the clock strikes 5.30pm. This ensemble is comfortable enough for the commute and most certainly stylish enough for the bar; therefore it’s great for work!”

Inspired to raise your officewear game? Shop Jake’s look below.

When it comes to the whistle and flute, Ted Baker is a man who knows. For over a decade, we’ve worked with the famed British brand to bring you an exclusive edit of finely tailored suiting, alongside an ever-elegant selection of his shoes and accessories. 

The pinnacle of this season’s suiting is the No Ordinary Joe Gold collection, crafted exclusively for Moss. by none other than Ted himself. Taking his thoroughly contemporary approach to the traditional suit and finishing it in the finest fabrics (always with truly distinctive linings), Ted’s newest collection is sure to bring an air of sophistication to your wardrobe.

Here, Ted takes us through the three key suits that’ll see you through the season ahead:

CHARCOAL MELANGE

A Ted take on a sartorial classic. Cut from 100% wool fabric, with a light and subtle melange texture, it’s elevated from the norm instantly. With a refined approach to detail and intricate honeybee lining, this is a suit designed to take your workday classic to the next level. Minimal of detail, it features a branded lapel pin and is cut for that effortless chic, city slicker look.

CHARCOAL WITH RED

Somewhere in the point between a windowpane and a soft plaid, this whistle and flute takes a very contemporary slant on the traditional check suit. Slim-tailored for a flattering fit, it’s refined in both fabric (100% wool, of course) and design details, finished with that distinctive honeycomb and bee lining to put a sting in your style.

BLUE ORANGE CHECK

For those days when something special is the only way, Ted’s sourced a blue and orange checked fabric, crafted from 100% wool, that’s cut for sartorial elegance par excellence. Designed to be either dressed up super-formally or perhaps worn with a raffish thin-gauge poloneck, this suit is finished with a contemporary blue and red diamond-print lining that’s designed to cut a dash.

SHOES & ACCESSORIES

Because Ted knows style doesn’t stop at the suit, he also offers up a selection of his finest shoes and accessories to ensure you’re styled to perfection, #TedtoToe.

For more of Ted’s top picks, check out the rest of the Ted Baker collection available at Moss.

Tired of the same old look? The start of the new season is the ideal time to sharpen up – and that includes your barnet. We recruited Gavin Hoare of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa for his insider’s take on the cuts and grooming that are shaping how men’s hair looks now.

Gone are the days when, like my Dad or Grandad before him, men stuck with a cut for life. There’s a new boy on the block and this is the generation of reinvention.

For me, the messier longer lengths are still holding strong in the fashion stakes. This style is longer through the top, back and sides but it’s the grooming that holds the key – the look is quietly controlled with the end result appearing like it has been achieved quite effortlessly. Experiment with your product choice rather than just make do with what’s in the discount bin of Superdrug.

For those amongst you who are confirmed ‘barber boys’, fear not: fades and clean lines are still very much evident at every turn. Even while I enjoyed my recent guilty pleasure of Love Island, we saw the resident chopper, Kem, fading hair from dawn till dusk, even if his own hair style choice was at times somewhat questionable.

As I’ve said, for me it’s all about reinvention. There are no rules. In fact, let’s just chuck out the rule book. Whatever your look – short, mid-length or longer – just don’t skimp on style, prep and product. Remember your barnet is your crowning glory – it goes everywhere with you so it’s worth giving it the TLC it deserves. Take pride in your presentation and take some time to get your look right. Every morning in my gym there is a steady queue of blokes happy to use hairdryers, straighteners, styling products and finishing sprays to get their look on point.

It seems that in 2017 the penny has dropped; our female counterparts do not wake up looking the way we see them. It takes time and some effort to get your confidence on, but get it right and you’ll be left feeling as sharp as the edge of a fresh fifty quid note. There’s really no better way to start your day.

Gavin Hoare is the manager of a team of 95 staff at Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa, a super salon based in the heart of London’s Chelsea. He also travels all over Europe on behalf of the Richard Ward salon with L‘Oréal as a consultant and educator, making guest artist appearances and delivering master classes at international hair shows. With a career spanning over 35 years, there’s not a lot he doesn’t know about male grooming, what’s hot and what’s not and how today’s men are keeping up with their female contemporaries.