Archive for the ‘Black Tie’ Category

Your guide to dress shirts

There’s more to black tie than the tux.

 

THERE’S MORE TO BLACK TIE THAN THE TUX

Words: A. Fozzard 

 

When it comes to black tie, a simple button down just won’t do; it’s time to wear a dress shirt. A formal version of the white suit shirt, it’s an essential part of the black-tie dress code and has a range of features that differentiates it from other regular shirts.

From the cuffs, to the placket, to the collar, here’s what you need to know about dress shirts.

SHOP DRESS SHIRTS 

 

Moss - marcella regular collar dress shirt

FROM UNDERWEAR TO FORMALWEAR

 

There was a time when our most formal shirts were just seen as underwear, designed to keep waistcoats clean. It wasn’t until the nineteenth century that stiff high collars and immaculate white cloths became a status symbol.

We have British fashion pioneers like Beau Brummel to thank for the stiff-collar shirt’s rise in the ranks. Only wealthy people could follow their lead, as you needed a decent amount of money to keep washing your white shirt.

There’s still a whiff of high-society about them today. Pristine white dress shirts are often reserved for formal events, those nights when you want to go all out like a wedding or an awards show.

But what’s the difference between a dress shirt and an Oxford shirt? There are three things to know, and it comes down to the collar, the cuffs and the placket.

THE COLLAR

 

You have two collar options for dress shirts. There’s the wing which is very classic 1880s, and the turned-down collar, reminiscent of the Duke of Windsor circa 1920s.

Also sometimes called wingtip, the wing collar is the most formal dress shirt. This collar stands up stiffly with small points pressed to stick out, and if you’re sticking to the rules you tuck these pointed wings behind your bow tie.

Turned-down collars are more like the ones on your smart business shirt. You’ll need one of these if you want to wear a normal tie, or no tie at all. It’s also best to tuck your shirt in to maintain formality across your look.

There was a time when the collar was separate from the shirt. Washing machines weren’t invented at the time, so an ingenious New Yorker found a way to detach the collar to wash it more often. Thankfully we’ve moved on since then, but you should give the collar a good iron to help it keep its shape.

THE CUFF

 

Dress shirts always have double cuffs (sometimes called French cuffs), which are designed to fold back on themselves and be secured with cufflinks. It’s easiest to keep your cufflinks simple like small studs in black or mother of pearl. Black tie is traditionally upmarket, not ostentatious – but where’s the fun in that? A cufflink is a chance to show some personality. Analyse the formality of the party and if you think you can pull off a novelty cufflink, go for it.

 

THE PLACKET

 

Your placket is the strip of fabric down the centre of your shirt that your buttons are sewn onto. On dress shirts, your placket will either conceal your buttons or host stud buttons.

For concealed buttons, there’s an extra layer of material to hide them which creates a clean finish. Stud buttons are small disks, usually in black, that look polished and add a little contrast to your shirt.

 

 

HOW TO STYLE YOUR MEN’S DRESS SHIRT

 

There was a time in the 70s when dress shirts had elaborate ruffles down the front – and they give a retro feel now if that’s what you’re after – but today most dress shirts come in smooth, plain cotton that looks minimal and clean. Some have pleats down the front (you can thank the Duke of Windsor for those), which add personality without going as far as out-there ruffles.

Think about the rest of your outfit – if you’re wearing a classic black tux you can definitely pull off a little texture, but if you’re wearing a colourful velvet dinner jacket, you might do better to keep your shirt streamlined.

Either way, you’ll want a bow tie. You can go classic black and neatly proportioned, or you can go oversized and floppy. As for the trims like your cufflinks, studs and watch, the rule of thumb is to keep your metals in the same colour (silver with silver, gold with gold). But this isn’t essential, so feel free to let your creativity shine through if it’s that kind of party.

 

Moss - tailored fit premium pleated dress shirt

HOW TO MEASURE FOR A DRESS SHIRT

 

You can work out your dress shirt size from the collar. The sizing is in inches, so you’ll need to dig out your tape measure to work out which size is right for your neck.

 

SHOP DRESS SHIRTS

Dress code: black tie

Dress-coded event coming up? Get ready with our friends the Thomas brothers.
Moss x Thomas Brothers - black tux group shot

EMBRACE BLACK-TIE SEASON WITH THE THOMAS BROTHERS

Words: C. Saramowicz

 

Black-tie dress codes can be daunting, especially if you’re not used to donning a tux on the regular. There are so many elements to consider – what dress shirt to wear, what lapel to choose, what is a cummerbund anyway? Whatever you’re invited to, here’s how to get the black-tie dress code right with some outfit inspiration from the Thomas brothers.

Tradition says that for a black tie event, you wear a black tuxedo – that means a black blazer with satin lapels and black trousers dress trousers – and a crisp white dress shirt. Add a black silk bow tie, black waistcoat or cummerbund and some black patent leather dress shoes and you’re good to go.

However, we’re now seeing more and more men getting creative with their black tie, showing off their own personal style rather than sticking to the more traditional feel. And it isn’t just extras like cufflinks and pocket squares that are the differing pieces.

Moss x Thomas Brothers - Adam

Work do

Work parties are a great time to showcase your personality and go all out. If you’re hesitant about diving into the black-tie aesthetic, a great way to ease yourself in is by adding a relaxed piece to the mix.

Here, Adam pairs a merino mock neck with a black velvet jacket. The jumper functions as a casual version of a dress shirt, which softens the look while still looking put together. Complete with black dress trousers and a pair of high-gloss shoes for a polished finish.

Get the look

Moss x Thomas Brothers - Scott

Black-tie wedding

If the wedding invite calls for black tie, it’s time to up the ante. You don’t always have to go full tux, though – a statement jacket can do wonders styled with paired-back separates.

For a winter wedding, take Scott’s example and combine a smooth merino wool rollneck with slim fit dress trousers. They’re tailored for a refined profile that’s the perfect base for a showstopper piece, like our burgundy floral velvet jacket. We’ve crafted it from velvety cotton with extra interest in the form of a textured floral motif.

If the wedding’s going to be a more formal affair, swap the rollneck out for a marcella dress shirt and finish with an oversized bow tie.

Get the look

Moss x Thomas Brothers - Ryan

Awards ceremony

If you’re heading to a black-tie dinner or an awards party, you need to look the part. It’s one of the best opportunities you’ll have to wear a full tux with all the trimmings.

Like Ryan, start off with a pristine dress shirt complete with a pleated bib. Then, add a pair of tailored dress trousers to cut a sharp lower half.

As for the jacket, the world is your oyster – catch the light in a jewel-toned option like green or burgundy, or go for a black-on-black look that feels intentionally put-together but requires little effort.

When it comes to accessories, no black-tie getup is complete without a bow-tie – our pick is one slightly larger and more statement-making than the traditional alternative, crafted from a premium velvet that perfectly matches the blazer. Add cufflinks for a shot of glimmer at the wrist, then finish with a polished patent monk shoe and you’ll be shining bright all night.

Get the look

SHOP THE THOMAS BROTHERS EDIT

 

Why you should be braver with black tie

Our guest editor Gareth Scourfield on how we’re all being braver with black tie.

 

It’s time to step into the spotlight

 

Words: G. Scourfield

Gareth Scourfield is contributor to GQ, Esquire and Gentleman’s Journal, stylist to high-profile clients like Ben Whishaw and Daniel Craig – and our guest editor for AW23. Here he reports on the evolution of the black tie dress code and gives his tips on how to embrace a little black-tie bravery yourself.

Getting invited to a formal event with a black tie dress code can be overwhelming. The classic black tuxedo, white shirt and bowtie combination might feel safe but can often feel a little restrictive too. However, as any recent red-carpet event or award ceremony will testify, lots of men are now being more daring and creative with their evening looks. And you can too: with a little thought and creativity, you can step up your look to embrace the spotlight this black-tie season, while still looking elegant for the occasion.

 

 

The evolution of men’s eveningwear outfits

Look over any number of recent red-carpet events and you’ll see men have been pushing the boundaries of eveningwear with unique design details and daring choices. No longer confined to the classic black suit, they are experimenting with different colours, textures, and patterns that reflect their individuality. Rich-coloured velvet blazers and midnight blue textured tuxedos offer up a bolder alternative to the traditional black tuxedo.

The design influences of 1970s evening wear, which first filtered down from the designer runway shows a few seasons ago, continue to make an impression on the traditional tuxedo suit – wider lapels, more generous proportions, fuller bow ties and louche silk shirts, often unbuttoned, have Saturday Night Fever all over them. Popular colours of the ‘70s such as dark browns and creams along with pale blue and pink ruffle-front dress shirts are also having their moment at glittering events.

This shift towards more confident dressing can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, society is becoming more accepting of diverse expressions of masculinity. Us men are no longer limited by outdated notions of what is considered ‘appropriate’ or ‘masculine’. Secondly, there is an increasing emphasis on self-expression in today’s culture. We’re realising that our wardrobe choices can be an extension of our personality. With so many more options now available, we all have the freedom to curate our own black-tie looks that truly reflect who we are.

 

 

step up to the black-tie dress code

Over the last decade, I’ve witnessed first-hand this subtle shift in black tie dressing with the celebrity clients I style for red carpet events. The expanding choices in men’s evening wear has allowed me to introduce new interpretations of the traditional black tuxedo, bringing out more of the individual’s personal style and taste. It can be very nuanced, with only subtle changes such as switching from a black patent lace-up to a velvet slipper, adding a piece of jewellery or choosing a velvet jacket or textured jacket rather than the traditional black tuxedo.

The sophistication that comes with donning a well-tailored tuxedo is unmatched. It’s not just about the garment itself, but also the confidence it instills in the wearer. Achieving that perfect fit and selecting garments with elegant proportions are key factors in creating your impeccable look, as are the tuxedo’s design details like satin lapels and pipe-seam trousers. Every element should be carefully curated to enhance the overall aesthetic – small details like making sure your bowtie is properly tied and your shoes are well-polished can be the difference between appearing polished and leaving a positive impression versus falling short on it.

Beyond the glamour, black tie dressing teaches us an important lesson – that confidence comes from within. When a man feels comfortable and stylish in his outfit, it comes through in his demeanour and interactions. It reminds us that dressing well is not just about impressing others, but also about feeling our best selves.

 

 

6 tips for the perfect black tie outfit

    1. FIT: Make sure the tuxedo and trousers are tailored to your body shape. Jackets should fit neatly across the shoulders and chest. Bulging biceps and pulled lapels are not a good look. Sleeve length should stop short to show about half an inch of shirt cuff. Trouser length should have a small break, meaning very little fabric around the hem and ankles.
    2. FOOTWEAR: Patent leather shoes, either lace-up or loafer. A velvet shoe or slipper is an elegant alternative. Your scruffy work shoes won’t cut it.
    3. SHIRTS: should always be well pressed. A dress shirt should always have a bibbed front, either narrow pleats or a textured Marcella bib front. I’d replace buttons with black or silver shirt studs, but if you find studs too fiddly, your buttons should be either mother of pearl of hidden completely with a placket front.
    4. TIES: Can’t tie your own tie? I get it, life’s too short, but it’s a life skill you can show off about. Be generous with your silk or velvet bow tie. Puff out the fabric a bit so it appears you have tied it yourself.
    5. ACCESSORIES: Resist comedy accessories. Cufflinks should be smart and classic in silver or gold with the option for mother of pearl or black onyx decoration. A colourful precious stone can elevate a white cuff. Socks should remain dark – a plain black or navy or go for a subtle texture in knitted silk or cotton.
    6. PROPORTIONS: Know your proportions. Taller men look elegant in a double-breasted jacket. Narrow shoulders? Go for a wider lapel, as it gives the illusion of broader shoulders. Stockier frames suit single-button jackets, drawing the eye downwards with a peak or shawl collar lapel. Keep trousers tailored with side adjusters on the waistband for a smoother line. Always consider the outside seam – a flat grosgrain silk panel is more obvious, a silk piped seam more discreet. The trouser hems should just be kissing the top of your shoes, with a small break or clean line. NEVER have your evening trousers puddling over your footwear. It just looks sloppy.

 

How to wear a 1920s suit for a party

This time, nothing is prohibited.

THIS TIME, NOTHING IS PROHIBITED

• WORDS: A. FOZZARD

We’re calling it: the roaring ’20s will be making some noise once again as we enter the twenty-first century’s take on the decade. Whether it’s for a Great Gatsby-themed wedding, a big birthday bash or a friend’s housewarming, we bet you’ll need your braces and baker boy cap at least once this year.

The roaring 1920s were about throwing caution to the wind. So what should you wear if anything goes?

BLACK TIE DONE THE JAZZ AGE WAY

Luckily parties, champagne towers, trombones and tuxes all go hand in hand. It means you can play it safe with a classic tux, finished with a dress shirt and a bow tie. Maybe nod to 1920s men’s fashion with a pinstriped waistcoat. Sorted.

You could go more out-there by choosing something double-breasted. Or a suit in anything but black. Neutral tailoring works well for the ’20s theme. Men used to go for the pristine shade to show they had wads of cash, seeing as they’d have to have the staff to keep it clean.

Another option is midnight blue. It was originally the dinner jacket colour of choice because it looked darker than black under the lights. Velvet and satin detailing will bring extra luxe to the theme.

TOUGH GUY FROM THE ’20s

The 1920s produced Al Capone. That’s all you need to know. The era had its fair share of gangsters, and there are loads of ways to get the look.

For British gangsters, it’s all about the sharp double-breasted suit made from heavy fabrics like tweed, Donegal and herringbone. These looks are in style at the moment, so it could be worth investing in a heritage-inspired suit if it’s your kind of style.

Famously, baker boy and flat caps shout 1920s tough guy. But if you’re more rich-American gangster than British badass, choose a fedora.

BRING ROARING ’20s STYLE WITH YOUR ACCESSORIES

They knew how to accessorise in the 1920s. Take your tux to Gatsby’s level with a wing collar shirt, complete with silver armbands. If you’ve gone down the thick tweed route, choose a striped shirt and braces. A pocket watch works for both the gangster and the gentleman.

1920s HAIR – THE ULTIMATE ACCESSORY

You’ll get a lot of outfit inspiration from this golden age, so chances are you’ll put yours on and think you look great – but not necessarily fully 1920s.

Quite often the final trick comes down to your hair. Slicking it to one side with a little quiff will make the difference between looking ready for a party and looking ready for a 1920s bash.

Black tie weddings: crack the sacred dress code with our tips for men

Here’s a quick guide to the black tie wedding dress code for men, so you can confidently show up looking sharp.

 

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BLACK TIE DRESS CODES

Words: L. Thorpe

Looking forward to an upcoming wedding but need inspiration for the strictly black tie dress code? Our quick guide to sophisticated black tie wedding attire for men will have you looking your best in no time.

What is a black tie wedding?

A wedding with a black tie dress code is as formal as it gets. The gents in the wedding party will be dressed to the nines, wearing black tuxedos and white dress shirts, likely accessorised with bow ties and cummerbunds.

Wedding guests are also expected to dress formally in a tuxedo or dinner suit with elegant accessories.

What sets tuxedos apart from regular suits? Tuxedo jackets have satin facing on the lapels, while standard suit jackets don’t. Tuxedo trousers have a stripe of matching satin running down the outer seam. This adds an extra touch of sophistication to the suit. Read more about tuxedos vs. suits here.

What should men wear to a black tie wedding?

Here’s what to look for when choosing your black tie outfit:

Shirt: This should be a white dress shirt, preferably in a style known as Marcella or piqué, meaning the fabric of the shirt has a naturally stiff cotton weave. Choose a shirt with a classic turn-down collar and white or black buttons. Your shirt should also have a double cuff (also called a French cuff), and you’ll need a smart pair of cufflinks to go with it.

Jacket and trousers: Wear a black dinner jacket or tuxedo jacket (the design must include buttons, pockets and satin lapels). Wear matching tuxedo trousers, which are high-waisted trousers that don’t have belt loops or cuffs. They should also have a satin stripe down the outer seam of each leg.

Pocket square: A flat-fold pocket square in your tux jacket will add a little colour and tie the look together. Choose a silk or linen pocket square in a colour that complements your tie but doesn’t match it.

Tie: Always wear a black bow tie for an event with a black tie dress code. The bow tie should be silk, hand tied, or pre-tied, but never a clip-on.

Shoes: Patent shoes in black are the ideal pairing for a tuxedo suit.

Waistcoat: Waistcoats are optional, but if you want to add one to your outfit, make sure it matches your suit. You could also wear a cummerbund instead of a waistcoat but never wear the two together.

Suspenders: Tuxedo trousers aren’t designed to be worn with a belt, so if you’re worried about a wardrobe malfunction or just looking to style your tuxedo with a finishing detail, suspenders are the way to go. Choose a high-quality fabric and a colour that complements your suit, like black, white or a dark neutral colour like navy or charcoal.

Modernising the black tie wedding dress code

You might find it ironic to hear that back in the 1880s, black tie was considered a way of dressing down rather than dressing up. Edward VII popularised the trend by wearing a silk suit (a smoking jacket and matching trousers) as a more comfortable alternative to the traditional knee-length tailcoat. Today, however, it’s one of our most formal event dress codes.

There are a few ways to put a modern spin on a black tie ensemble and add your own signature style. It’s all in the details – you can choose a colourful pocket square or a unique pair of cufflinks to make your outfit stand out.

More daring modern takes on the black tie dress code include wearing a velvet jacket instead of the traditional tuxedo jacket or replacing the traditional black bow tie with a much bolder colour. However, if you’re going to a wedding, it’s always best to stick with the classics – it’s considered bad form to wear something too flashy that will upstage the bride and groom. Channel your inner 007 with a time-honoured black tux and bowtie, and save the more adventurous style choices for another time.

For a black tie look that’s all about style and confidence, browse the selection of formal men’s attire from Moss.

The party style guide: Christmas party outfits

This is how you bring the party.

THIS IS HOW YOU BRING THE PARTY

It’s that time again: party season is here. And with it, the best excuse you’ll have all year to dress up. Don’t wait until the formal ball invitation arrives though – get in the festive spirit and make any time party time.

Pre-Christmas catch-up with friends? Add velvet! The in-laws’ annual festive gathering? Go bold! The much-anticipated office party? You get the idea.

Whatever you’ve got planned this going-out season, use our handy scale to make sure you always bring the party.

christmas party outfit

A FESTIVE ROUND WITH FRIENDS

Picture this: you’re heading to the pub to meet your friends after work. So far, so normal. But it’s party season, so why not dress like it? Even if you’re just going to your local, it takes very little effort to top corduroy trousers and a cable knit jumper with a velvet jacket. And make it one in a festive colour – not just because you can but because you should. Add a casually ruffled pocket square in a contrast colour and you’ve successfully made a few friendly pints feel like the party it should be at this time of year.

christmas party outfit

AFTER-WORK DRINKS

Your party piece this going-out season? A really good party jacket that’ll take your look from the day job to a night out with impressive ease. This one’s combination of luxe velvet and a neutral hue means it does a great job of dressing up semi-casual kit – like this white rollneck and side-stripe trousers that you could easily wear to work. Come 6 p.m., throw on the jacket, pull out the coordinating pocket square lining and you’ve effortlessly transitioned into party mode. Now that’s a good trick to have up your sleeve.

christmas party outfit

THE OFFICE CHRISTMAS PARTY OUTFIT

When the office Christmas party comes around, it’s time to take it up a notch. Depending on where you work, you’ll have varying degrees of dress code to work to. If the dress code is more relaxed, don’t take that as a reason to make less effort – if anything, this is your opportunity to go bold! If you can’t wear a velvet jacket with satin lapels at Christmas, then when can you? A suit this bold does all the talking for you (metaphorically, we mean – you’ll still have to practise your small talk), so keep everything else pared-back with a white t-shirt and suede trainers.

christmas party outfit

THE IMPRESS-YOUR-BOSS PARTY

Office do likely to be a more restrained affair? You can still bring the party without shocking senior leadership with your blatant disregard for the dress code. A festive green jacket adds touchable texture (lucky you) and will show up beautifully under soft lighting. Style it with head-to-toe black so the look’s refined rather than flashy. Skip the tie and instead keep a couple of your collar buttons undone – this is the one time of year you’ve got your boss’s permission to literally loosen your collar, so use it.

christmas party outfit

THE BLACK TIE INVITATION

The invitation says ‘black tie’ so you need to step it up. A tuxedo is non-negotiable. But nobody said it had to be black. Navy is actually the tradition (it came about when electric lights went mainstream, looking better as it does under artificial light) but you’ll still stand out in a crowd of more common penguin suits. A brighter hue, like the dusty pink above, is party-ready (like you), so all you need is a crisp white shirt, black satin bow tie and patent dress shoes.

christmas party outfit

THE FULL WORKS

And finally, we reach all-out black tie. This is off-the-scale dressing up. If you’ve got this invitation – the Elton-John’s-Christmas-party-level invitation – you need the full works. It’s rare as men we get the chance to go for glamour, but that’s what you’re aiming for here. Start with a pin-sharp tuxedo, a formal shirt and smart shoes, like patent Oxfords. Then dial up the drama. An oversized floppy bow tie feels straight out of golden-age Hollywood, while a double-breasted overcoat with peak lapels is unapologetically high-impact.

How to wear velvet this party season

You’re one tactile jacket away from all-out evening style.

YOUR TACTILE TICKET TO NIGHT-TIME STYLE

• WORDS: L. HOLMES

Like it or not, it’s almost that time of year again when the party season will soon be in full swing. If you’re feeling especially bah-humbug about the whole thing, some of these shindigs you’ll be able to swerve, others maybe not. But what there’s no escaping, if your chosen knees-up demands it, is that you’re going to be the most dressed-up you’ve probably been all year. All of which means you’ll have to find something to wear that has a little more bite than your usual day-to-day suit.

SO WHAT SHOULD BE MY PARTY FABRIC OF CHOICE?

One particular fabric that will tick all of your party season boxes and was once traditionally the reserve of royalty, is velvet. Thankfully, in these slightly more egalitarian times, velvet no longer holds such lofty connotations. And perhaps most surprising of all for such a luxe fabric, it can be worn in any number of ways, proving its versatility to boot.

CAN I WEAR VELVET TO A BLACK TIE EVENT?

You most definitely can, and indeed should. For any formal events, break the mould and switch your tried-and-tested black tuxedo for one in claret or chocolate velvet. Not only will you be adding all of the extra bells and whistles needed at this time of year, but you’ll also be dialling up that old-school glamour too. All that’s required of you is a guarantee that your velvet tux is cut on the slim side and that you’re primed and ready to step in and play at being James Bond should the occasion require it. Vodka Martinis are entirely optional.

BUT WILL WEARING VELVET MAKE ME THE CENTRE OF ATTENTION?

Almost certainly. And if you’re something of a shrinking violet, one major downside to wearing velvet is that many of your fellow party guests will, without doubt, want to stroke you as the night wears on. The solution? Never forget that the devil is always in the details and the addition of a simple velvet bow tie worn with a more traditional tux will still more than pass muster.

WHAT IF MY PARTY ISN’T BLACK TIE?

If your soirée doesn’t require the above amount of swish, then you could always wear your velvet jacket as a separate instead. Break up your look with a lambswool roll-neck sweater. Or go one step further and wear it over a jazzy printed shirt. Finish your outfit off with your finest pair of black denim jeans and shoes, safe in the knowledge that your velvet jacket will make whatever else you’re wearing swankier by association.

All of which goes to show, that whatever velvet combo you decide upon, it’s the golden ticket when dressing for any parties you have pencilled into your diary. Just remember two things: arrive fashionably late and don’t hog the karaoke machine.