Since British tailoring made its debut on Saville Row way back in the late 1800s, it’s been known for its structured look. And while there’ll always be a well-earned place for our country’s traditional suiting, the time has come for a lighter approach to tailoring too.
So we’ve stripped the suit down and rebuilt it in its most comfortable form yet. Yes, it’s still a suit and ticks the ‘formal’ box for work or other smart occasions, but it’s also lightweight and easy to wear.
Sound good? Here’s how it’s done.
First, we removed the shoulder pads for an instantly softer silhouette and a more comfortable fit. This also allows for a more natural drape, as the line of the shoulder eases into the line of the sleeve without any hard seams holding in padding.
Next came the fit. Designed under our Moss London label, our unstructured suits are cut on our slim fit block. That means they’ve got a shorter length jacket and are neat through the sleeve and leg, but we spun a bit of stretch into the mix so your suit has the give to move as you do.
We also lined our unstructured suits ‘buggy’ style: a half-lining with two lightweight panels that overlap in butterfly style across the back of the shoulders. It gives form without the weight or bulk of a full lining, so lightens the load for hot summer days.
It’s worth noting that a buggy lining actually takes more workmanship than a full one, even though there’s less of it. As the inside of the jacket is on show, seams need to be bound properly and everything has to be finished with care.
The main takeaway? Looking sharp can feel relaxed too. Welcome to the shape of things to come.
Established in 1881 by brothers Stefano, Antonio and Quintino Cerruti, the Lanificio F.lli Cerruti mill is still a family-run operation and is internationally renowned for exceptional cloth. It’s based in Biella – the home of traditional Italian textile manufacturing – and combines innovation in technology with the finest raw materials to produce its prized yarns.
The brand’s iTravel cloth is one of the highest quality performance fabrics on the market as it’s made from 100% wool cloth (most others are a blend). The wool is sourced from Australia for its fineness and its ‘crimp’ – the wavy structure of the fibres that increases its breathability. It’s then brought to Italy where it’s spun into high-twist yarn with natural crease resistance and finally given a water- and stain-resistant finish.
The mill is also noted for its expertise in the dyeing process, with saturated colours and subtle melange effects added to the raw materials before production to ensure they stay locked in and beautiful. Always innovating, the Cerruti mill produces over 8000 new colours every year.
This season, Lanificio F.lli Cerruti Dal 1881 suits come in a new slimmed-down tailored fit with softer construction for relaxed elegance. Other typically Italian details include working cuffs with corozo nut buttons sewn on in ‘kissing’ style, statement lapels and angled pockets. Inside, you’ll find a full contrast lining – a signature of any Cerutti suit at Moss Bros.
There’s a reason Italian cloth is considered the world’s finest.
We might be a British brand (and we’ll sing the praises of a heritage British tweed anytime), but our Italian neighbours really do know a thing or two about making exceptionally beautiful fabrics. It’s also true that Italian men have a certain style that’s envied the world over – take a look at the street style from the Pitti Uomo trade show to see what we mean.
So how can you get a little Italian style for yourself? We suggest cloth from Italy’s finest mills, finely tailored by us and finished with just a touch of Italian swagger. Here’s how:
Our take on Italian style: this bright blue windowpane suit is crafted from a super 110s worsted wool cloth we’ve sourced from Italy’s renowned Reda mill. It’s cut in our signature tailored fit but with a slightly more relaxed construction and softer shoulders for a little of that laidback elegance the Italians do so well.
Its 2.5 button design and softly rolled lapel are further signatures of Italian tailoring, designed to partly obscure the top button so that only the middle one is worn fastened. Any man worth his styling salt in Milan or Florence will wear his jacket like this – it’s all part of the delicate act of looking like they care, but never too much.
Achieve great style anywhere, anytime with the Moss 1851 travel blazer. Another example of the Reda mill’s fabric expertise; this time a lightweight, open-weave cloth made from pure wool that’s naturally resilient and crease-resistant. Cut in a tailored fit with a travel-friendly half lining, it’s finished with working 4-button cuffs, sewn on in ‘kissing’ style – just like the Italians do it.
Based in the foothills of Biella for almost 150 years, the Reda mill sources the finest wool from Australia and New Zealand, before turning it into world-class cloth using the traditional craftsmanship of local workers and cutting-edge technology. Here’s a look at what goes on inside its storied doors:
Impeccable style on the go? It’s easy with a Lanificio F.lli Cerruti Dal 1881 cloth iTravel suit.
Spun from breathable, pure wool with high-twisted yarns to deliver natural stretch and shape memory, it’s also got a special water and stain resistant coating. iTravel suits are cut in a softly constructed tailored fit and finished with typically Italian styling such as angled pockets and corozo nut buttons.
This one comes in a bright blue hue that’s well suited for a little Italian-style peacocking. What’s more, the 130-year-old mill dyes its cloths in their raw material form, so you can be sure its vibrant shade will go the distance.
Ermenegildo Zegna is arguably one of Italy’s finest mills, providing top-notch cloth to the world’s leading menswear designers. From selecting only the finest raw materials to finishing, it’s renowned for its commitment to quality, craftsmanship and innovation.
This bright blue twill suit is a prime example of the mill’s coveted cloth, spun from finest Australian wool for a superfine handle with a luxurious sheen. Much of Italian men’s style can be put down to enviable self-assurance – not the easiest thing to emulate if you don’t own it already, but in a suit this finely made you’ll look like you do.
And finally, if you’re looking for the very best, we present to you this broken stripe suit crafted from Zenga’s famed Trofeo quality cloth. This worsted fabric is made using superfine Australian Merino wool with long fibres, which produces finer yarns and a smooth, satin-like finish.
In short? A suit that feels as incredible as it looks. Save this one for when you need to wow at work.
