Spotlight on: the unstructured suit
Great style, no restrictions.
SPOTLIGHT ON: THE UNSTRUCTURED SUIT
GREAT STYLE, NO RESTRICTIONS
• WORDS: C. STEWART
Since British tailoring made its debut on Saville Row way back in the late 1800s, it’s been known for its structured look. And while there’ll always be a well-earned place for our country’s traditional suiting, the time has come for a lighter approach to tailoring too.
So we’ve stripped the suit down and rebuilt it in its most comfortable form yet. Yes, it’s still a suit and ticks the ‘formal’ box for work or other smart occasions, but it’s also lightweight and easy to wear.
Sound good? Here’s how it’s done.
First, we removed the shoulder pads for an instantly softer silhouette and a more comfortable fit. This also allows for a more natural drape, as the line of the shoulder eases into the line of the sleeve without any hard seams holding in padding.
Next came the fit. Designed under our Moss London label, our unstructured suits are cut on our slim fit block. That means they’ve got a shorter length jacket and are neat through the sleeve and leg, but we spun a bit of stretch into the mix so your suit has the give to move as you do.
We also lined our unstructured suits ‘buggy’ style: a half-lining with two lightweight panels that overlap in butterfly style across the back of the shoulders. It gives form without the weight or bulk of a full lining, so lightens the load for hot summer days.
It’s worth noting that a buggy lining actually takes more workmanship than a full one, even though there’s less of it. As the inside of the jacket is on show, seams need to be bound properly and everything has to be finished with care.
The main takeaway? Looking sharp can feel relaxed too. Welcome to the shape of things to come.