Archive for March, 2019

How to iron your shirt

It’s time to straighten up your act.

An iron next to a checked shirt.

IT’S TIME TO STRAIGHTEN UP YOUR ACT

• WORDS: C. STEWART

If you’ve gone to the trouble of getting a sharp suit or tux for prom, you don’t want a crumpled shirt to let the side down. And while your mum or dad might usually do the ironing, you’re getting ready to be a man of the world now so you should really be able to it yourself.

So this is it: here’s how to iron your prom shirt like a pro.

An ironed floral shirt and an iron

STEP 1: PREP

Start easy: plug in the iron. You’re going to need to select a setting, so read your shirt’s label. Cotton or cotton-blend shirts can take higher heat, but something with polyester or spandex might be a bit more delicate. If in doubt, pick a low setting and move up if you need to.

STEP 2: COLLAR

Shirts always get ironed from the collar down. Lift the collar up and iron the underside from one tip to the other. Then flip the shirt over and repeat on the outside.

STEP 3: CUFFS

Unbutton your cuffs and repeat the process above, ironing them on the inside and then the outside, pressing any wrinkles out towards the edges. Never iron over the buttons as they can leave a mark on your shirt – iron around them instead.

STEP 4: FRONT

Unbutton your shirt and lay one side of its front flat on the ironing board, with the rest hanging off the side. Start ironing at the shoulders and work your way down, pressing creases out towards the sides. Again, avoid the buttons and iron carefully around them instead. Give the placket (that’s the strip your buttons are on) extra attention as it’ll be the most visible part of your shirt when you’ve got a jacket on. Repeat on the other side.

STEP 5: BACK

Flip your shirt over and lay it with the collar nearest the pointy end of the ironing board. Start with the yoke at the top (that’s the panel that covers the back of your shoulders), and work your way down to the bottom.

STEP 6: SLEEVES

Lay the sleeve down the length of your ironing board, ensuring it’s nice and flat. Iron from the shoulders down to the cuff. You don’t really want a crease down the side of your arms, so make sure you concentrate on the middle of the fabric and stay away from the edges. As usual, repeat on the other side. And, you know, the other arm.

BONUS TIP

Iron slowly, but not so slowly that you burn your shirt. Burns are not a good look.

GO TO PROM SHOP

How to polish your shoes

A pair of sturdy leathers can last you a lifetime, but not if you knock them about.

A pair of polished brown leather shoes on a wooden table.

• WORDS: C. STEWART

A pair of prom shoes can last you a lifetime, but not if you knock them about.

Like anything worth keeping, you’ve got to treat them right. It’s simple, really. These are the four steps you need to know.

A pair of polished leather shoes

STEP 1: CLEAN

The key to crack-free, shiny leather shoes is a good old moisturise. First things first, remove the laces (you don’t want polish on them). Next, wipe away any surface dirt with a brush. Then apply leather conditioner to an old t-shirt and rub in a circular motion to fill in any cracks.

STEP 2: POLISH

Choose a cream or wax based polish in a shade that matches your shoes. If in doubt, go lighter, unless you want to completely change the colour. Apply the polish in a circular motion, then buff vigorously with a brush and leave your shoes to dry.

STEP 3: SHINE

Grab that old t-shirt again and dab some polish on it, and add a few drops of water onto the leather. Next, you’ll need a bit of elbow grease. Polish the water away until you’ve got a smooth, shiny, mirror-like finish.

STEP 4: STEP BACK

It’s time to admire your handy work.

GO TO PROM SHOP

1920s men’s style: from the working class to gangsters

What type of clothing was popular in the 1920s?.

1920s MEN’S FASHION

WHAT DID MEN WEAR IN THE ’20s?

• WORDS: A. FOZZARD

Post-war Britain was a happy place to be. And it was a very fashionable place to be too.

With celebrations in full swing, men’s style stepped up a gear. Rules relaxed and purse strings loosened, simply because people once again had money in their pockets. That meant people had the time, the cash and the flexibility to think about what they wanted to wear (for a little while, anyway). Men’s trendsetters were born, from the Duke of Windsor to Jay Gatsby.

But what about the working classes of the 1920s? These men didn’t have the cash to spend on a wardrobe of suits – they needed one or two that would work for all occasions. Practicality was key, and they needed to last.

 

1920S MEN’S FASHION: WORKING CLASS

Thick, made-to-last fabrics were a popular choice, like tweed, Donegal and herringbone. They were heavy and warm, often worn with a long overcoat in winter. Baker boy and flat caps were also staples, as were pleated trousers.
How to do it today? Look for suits made in these rich materials. There are plenty out there, but they’re now designed to be more lightweight and wearable. Bring the look into the 21st century with a slim or tailored fit suit that’s more frame-defining. Complete the look with the signature cap.

Shop the 1920s look here.

1920S MEN’S FASHION: GANGSTERS

Since they often had working-class roots, gangsters in the 1920s also wore suits in these heavy fabrics. But because they had a bit more money (and most definitely wanted to show off), they’d go all out with accessories. Tie clips, collar pins, armbands, smart ties and round collars were all part of the look. Collars were actually separate in the 1920s and men had to fix them to their shirts, so they’d often have them in white to contrast with a coloured shirt. Flat caps were popular, but some men chose a fedora if they wanted to go all out.

Get the look with some well-chosen shirts and accessories to go with your heritage fabric suit. A penny collar shirt (one with rounded collar tips), knitted tie and tie clip are all you need. Take a peek at our 1920s fashion edit here.

1920S MEN’S FASHION: EVENINGWEAR

Full evening dress was out, dinner jackets were in. The 1920s saw the rise of the tux, complete with shawl or peak lapels and satin. They were often worn with white waistcoats and bow ties.

White tuxedos were a symbol of wealth, so men wanting to make a statement sometimes opted for one of these. And what we know today as the classic black tux was midnight blue in the ‘20s, because it actually looked darker under the lights.

It’s easy to replicate this look with a classic tux. Finish it off with a Marcella shirt featuring stud buttons, a black bow tie and a pocket square.

Meet the brand: HUGO by Hugo Boss

Clean-cut menswear that means business.

CLEAN-CUT MENSWEAR THAT MEANS BUSINESS
• WORDS: C. STEWART

Think of German design and you’re likely to think of understated quality, clever engineering and a serious eye for the details. And while you’ve probably got one of Germany’s prestigious car makers in mind, the description also fits one of its most famous clothing brands: Hugo Boss.

With a rich history in menswear dating back to 1924, Hugo Boss has tailoring at its core. Today its HUGO label delivers simple, sharp suiting that’ll upgrade your work wardrobe.

So what can you expect from a HUGO suit? Jackets and trousers are precision-cut in a modern, slim fit. The brand is also celebrated for its premium fabrics, sourcing quality virgin wool from the best Italian mills. Many of its cloths are fil-à-fil or end-on-end – a type of closely woven cloth that alternates light and dark warp and weft threads to create a tactile, heathered effect.

You’ll find these cloths in mostly refined colours but also in bright, saturated hues and micro patterns all designed to make you stand out without ever looking like you’ve tried. Some might call it ‘relaxed elegance’, but we’d go as far as to say ‘promotion material’.

Subtle signature touches like red stitch detailing under the collar, mother of pearl buttons and built-in pocket squares all add up to suits that’ll show your boss you mean business. Also worth noting: HUGO tailoring comes as separates, so you can get the most out of individual pieces by mixing them with what’s already in your wardrobe.

And finally, for those who subscribe to the HUGO commitment to the details, the range also includes a tight edit of outerwear, shirts and accessories all realised in the same quality of materials and considered aesthetic. Ideal to round off your outfit in well-formed style, or a great gift for someone who appreciates the finer things in life.

SHOP HUGO BY HUGO BOSS

Fabric focus: Velvet

A symbol of luxury and style.

HOW VELVET BECAME A SYMBOL OF LUXURY AND STYLE

• WORDS: A. FOZZARD

For a long time tuxedos have ruled on the red carpet. But more and more, velvet’s stealing its share of the limelight. And that’s understandable, as it’s well-suited to dressed-up occasions. For a start, it’s incredibly soft with a plush pile. It has a sheen that catches the light, but not in the same way as satin. And it is, without a doubt, associated with richness. But why is that?

HOW IS VELVET MADE?

Velvet is woven on looms that create two thicknesses of the same material. Once they’re cut apart, it leaves a raised surface. That’s how you get its hallmark dense, tactile handle.The sheen comes from the threads that are used. They were traditionally made from silk but now cotton and manmade materials are used too, which also makes velvet much more affordable.

Usually seen on party jackets, velvet is an opulent fabric that’ll help you stand out while still meeting eveningwear dress codes.

WHERE DOES VELVET COME FROM?

We have ancient highly skilled weavers from the Middle East and North Africa to thank for velvet. Because it was difficult to make, it was seriously expensive and reserved for royals and nobility. Even when weavers in Italy and Spain started using more advanced technology, it remained a very luxurious cloth and a symbol of wealth. You’d often see velvet on commemorative robes and wall hangings, for example.Once it became cheaper to produce with new machinery, velvet got a new lease of life – as the basis for a smoking jacket.

A SHORT HISTORY OF THE VELVET SMOKING JACKET

When the Crimean war brought Turkish tobacco to British shores, men took up smoking in a big way. They’d retreat to a billiards room after dinner to puff on cigars and talk without the listening ears of their wives and daughters.There was one problem though – they’d return smelling of smoke. The answer? A velvet smoking jacket made from silk.

Thanks to the Silk Road, loads of these fabrics were coming across from Asia to Europe, and aristocrats turned to them as a way of absorbing the smell of smoke. They also protected their clothing from ash. It seemed to work, which is why they became so popular in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. You’d often see velvet jackets with shawl lapels and frogging (military-inspired detailing), which gave them a less formal feel.

HOW TO WEAR VELVET

Today’s velvet jackets are much sharper. They’re usually dress jackets, designed for formal events and parties. True to their luxurious roots, they’re often in jewel tones like deep greens, reds and blues, as well as black.Styling a velvet jacket is easy because it’s already a rich fabric. All you need is a pair of black dress trousers and a white or black shirt. You could dress it up with a bow tie or keep it open-necked for a pared-back take on formal dress codes.

SHOP VELVET BLAZERS