Archive for September, 2019

How to wear a black suit

…without looking like you’re going to a funeral.

WITHOUT LOOKING LIKE YOU’RE GOING TO A FUNERAL

• WORDS: L. HOLMES

The black suit is often unfairly thought of as the fail-safe in your wardrobe; a safe piece of kit you instinctively fall back on when you want to blend in with the crowd. It’s an undeservedly bad rep, with the result that many of us avoid black tailoring like we’d avoid the Black Plague.

However, with a few well-placed tweaks, it’s incredibly easy to give what is traditionally thought of as an uninspiring choice a new lease of life.

SHOP BLACK SUITS

Firstly and perhaps most importantly, the fit of your suit is key; anything ill-fitting, whatever its colour, is going to look icky, so remember to keep proportions clean with slim-fitting collars and lapels.

WHAT SHIRT GOES WITH A BLACK SUIT?

Surprisingly, the colour of the shirt you wear can also play a very important role in this subtle overhaul of the black suit. Our advice is to stay away from dark colours and coordinate your suit with pale greys or white instead. Wear it open-necked for causal-fashion points. Or, if your workplace rules dictate that a collar and tie are the order of the day, then mixing things up with a textured tie will give your suit an added bit of oomph.

WHAT ABOUT SHOES?

Any concerns you may harbour about looking like you’re waiting tables at the local bistro can be quashed by ditching the smart shoes and wearing a casual trainer instead. Office etiquette permitting, this will carry you through on the right track.

WHAT ELSE GOES WITH A BLACK SUIT?

Another breezy way to elevate this classic staple is to swap out the shirt for contrast-coloured knitwear; even something as uncomplicated as a grey polo can give your basic black suit the push in the right direction it so richly deserves.

ARE YOU SURE I WON’T LOOK LIKE I’M GOING TO A FUNERAL?

And if you’re still stuck in the mindset that a black suit can never look anything other than funereal, then rise to the challenge of a double-breasted style instead. Wear it over a lightweight crew neck jumper or t-shirt and you’ll soon dispel any lingering doubts you may have about not looking like the well-turned-out man you really are. This informal approach will also work for single-breasted jackets too.

IS IT OK TO WEAR A BLACK SUIT TO A WEDDING?

Follow these simple pointers and this fast-track revamp will soon have you and your black suit enjoying best-dressed status all day every day on almost every occasion. We say ‘almost’ because there’s probably one more piece of advice you should heed: for those joyous events such as weddings, unless the dress code stipulates black tie, then ring in the changes with a suit in a lighter hue such as grey.

SO, CAN I WEAR A BLACK SUIT TO BLACK TIE, THEN?

Assuming that you’ve been invited to a bona fide black-tie event then the simple answer is no. Black-tie dressing is a whole different ball game with a set of sartorial procedures that revolves around a tuxedo or dinner jacket. With that in mind, it’s probably the one occasion where the humble black suit just won’t cut the mustard.

The shirt weave guide

Poplin, twill, herringbone or Oxford? Here’s what you need to know.

POPLIN, TWILL, HERRINGBONE OR OXFORD? HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

When does a cotton shirt become more than just a cotton shirt? When you factor in how its fabric is woven.

Different weaves create different characteristics and will determine how your shirt looks and feels. What makes one shirt more lightweight than others? The weave. And how about easier to iron? Yeah, that’s its weave. That interesting texture? Well, you get the picture.

Most business shirts will come in one of four weaves. So let’s break them down.

 

Poplin is a smooth, everyday weave and you’ll find men wearing it as standard in offices across the country. Its closely-woven threads create a crisscross pattern that makes this fabric particularly durable, yet it’s still lightweight and more breathable than other weaves. It’s also got little to no sheen, so it looks crisp and professional.

 

SHOP POPLIN SHIRTS

 

 

An Oxford shirt is made from a traditional basketweave fabric, meaning multiple weft threads are crossed equally over warp threads. It usually blends a single colour yarn with white for a micro checked appearance that’s equally suited to officewear as it is more casual outfits.

 

SHOP OXFORD SHIRTS

 

 

Sturdy yet soft, twill is woven with two threads that cross over and under each other to create a diagonal pattern. It’s thicker and warmer than other weaves, however, it also drapes well, has a light sheen and is more resistant to creasing, so you’ll find it a great choice for staying smart on colder weekdays.

 

SHOP TWILL SHIRTS

 

 

Named for its similarity to the skeleton of the herring fish, this popular pattern has been used in menswear for many years, typically on suits and outerwear. Used on a white or plain coloured shirt, it’s a great choice to add a bit of interest to everyday outfits.

 

SHOP HERRINGBONE SHIRTS