Archive for June, 2022

The history of the double-breasted suit

How the DB returned to form.

The double-breasted suit is a true classic. It has adapted to different trends through the decades, proving itself as an enduring symbol of MENSWEAR.

Double-breasted suits may have fallen out of favour over the years, but now they’re back leading the charge as the suiting shape to be seen in. Frame-defining cuts, great cloth and a new relaxed take on how to wear them make them better than ever, but they still reflect their long and storied heritage.

Here we unpick how these iconic suits have matured over the years.

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN: FRIVOLITY 
When we first started tailoring suits in the latter half of the 1800s, double-breasted suits were the casual offering compared to formal tails. Taking inspiration from the naval reefer jacket (a style like today’s pea coats), they were mostly worn for leisure and sports. In fact, if you’d shown up to the office in a double-breasted suit at the end of the nineteenth century you would probably have been turned away.

SUITS THROUGH THE WARS
Rations on materials during WWI meant double-breasted suits weren’t the practical option. It was a time where frugality and durability had to take precedence over style. Our stores began supplying uniforms for the military while also tailoring suits for leading political figures. The suits and uniforms were simple, resilient and designed to make the wearer look strong and confident.

1920s AND 1930S: THE GOLDEN ERA

In between WWI and WWII, double-breasted suits really hit the limelight. Through the 20s and 30s, Britain was enjoying a post-war celebratory mood and people generally had more money to spend. The Duke of Windsor, Edward VIII, started to champion the DB during this time and was instrumental in its rise in popularity as men were keen to emulate his style. With Moss. branching outside of London to become a high street tailor, it gave men across the UK the chance to follow in the Duke’s rakish footsteps with a stylish double-breasted suit, complete with wide peak lapels and cleverly positioned buttons that helped to make men appear taller.

TURBULENT TIMES FOR DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS
Between the 50s and the turn of the century, double-breasted suits fell in and out of favour. They returned after WWII and then disappeared in the 60s when simplicity was the aim. Look to the 1980s and everything was larger than ever, from pop music to hair to shoulder pads. Double-breasted suits took centre stage, but they were nothing like the ones you see today. They were oversized, had huge peak lapels and had wide-leg trousers to match. It’s little wonder they went to the back of men’s closets for a while.

RETURN TO FORM: DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS TODAY
Tailoring has become altogether sharper in the twenty-first century. As part of the move away from larger-than-life aesthetics, suits have returned to their finest form. Today’s double-breasted suit is part of that movement, taking the best of the DB in its heydey and updating it with more natural shoulders, lighter construction and an all-over trimmer fit to suit how men dress now.

 

Men’s ties: how to tie a four in hand knot

Men’s ties: how to tie a Four in Hand knot

At Moss, we know that caring about the details makes the difference between just turning up and being well turned out. Case in point: a perfectly knotted tie.
As part of a new series, we’ve enlisted the knot-tying experts, Sophisticated Knots, to guide you through the top knots you need to know for a stylish finish all tied up.

 

There has never been a greater time to reinvent the traditional tie. There are countless ways that you can style a tie, however, when it comes to a wedding or a job interview many of us rely on muscle memory to kick in to remind us how to tie the traditional knot we styled in high school.

At Sophisticated Knots, we are dedicated to tying knots with a difference so we’ve partnered with Moss to show you some quick and simple non-traditional knots that will take your tie knots from meek to sleek in no time.

WHAT IS A FOUR-IN-HAND KNOT?

First up: the Four in Hand knot. With just a few simple steps this knot, also known as the Schoolboy knot or the Simple knot, is quick and easy to remember. The slim and sleek finish of the Four in Hand knot matches perfectly with any tailored suit and is usually worn with a dress shirt. This style of knot rose to popularity in the 19th and early 20th century but is still popular today. It’s a more casual tie style than some of the alternative knots like the Full Windsor knot and the Half Windsor knot, so it’s best worn for less formal occasions.

The main feature of the Four-in-Hand knot is a small, asymmetrical knot that’s best worn with ties that are wide and made from heavier fabrics. A good rule for tie width is to match your tie to the width of the lapels on your suit.

HOW DO YOU TIE A FOUR-IN-HAND KNOT TIE?

If you’re not used to ties then you might want to get a little bit of practice in before your event so you’re not learning how to tie your tie under pressure. It does get easier the more you do it so try getting the hang of it in front of the mirror ahead of time if you can.

To tie a Four in Hand knot you need to start with the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. Begin with the small end slightly above your belly button. Only move the wide end of your tie, the small end should sit on your stomach. Bring the wide end over the small end to the left, then under the small end and to the right. Then bring the wide end across the front and to the left, then up into the neck loop from underneath. After this, take it down through the loop you’ve just made in the front. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up & adjust.

Here’s how to do it with images if you find it easier to visualise a Four in Hand knot this way:

 

how to tie a four in hand knot

How to tie a four-in-hand knot

 

Want to add a final flourish? A ‘dimple’ is the mark of a truly sophisticated tie-wearer – simply pinch the top of your tie to create the dimple and hold in place while you tighten the knot.

OTHER TIE STYLES TO TRY

If you decide that a Four in Hand knot isn’t for you, then there are some other casual tie styles that you can try. The Pratt knot ties with a slightly bigger know that the Four in Hand, making the tie longer. This style looks great with a skinny tie, and as it lengthens the tie it can be a great style for taller and bigger men who might find that other types of knots come up a little on the shorter side. The Trinity knot is another casual style that uses a unique three-fold appearance to create an eye-catching look.

Looking for something a bit more formal than a Four in Hand knot tie? You could try the Full Windsor knot (also known as the Double Windsor) or the Half Windsor tie knot. These are usually more suited for formal events such as weddings and business meetings, so if a Four-in-Hand knot isn’t quite cutting it then you should take a look at these alternatives.

We would love to see your knots with your Moss ties – tag us on our social channels at the links below.

Sophisticated Knots was founded by Nathaniel Holder with a vision to provide a service of tying knots with a difference. He and his team offer tutorials and styling services to help individuals, groups and wedding parties tie unique knots that add a touch of flair to everyday wear, corporate events and special occasions. Find more tips and ideas for styling knots at sophisticatedknots.com or follow them on their social channels:

Instagram: @_S_Knots
Twitter: @_S_Knots
Facebook: Sophisticated Knots

Six ways to be a great groomsman

Make their big day a brilliant one.

SIX WAYS TO BE A GREAT GROOMSMAN

MAKE THEIR BIG DAY A BRILLIANT ONE

Being a top groomsman requires more than just looking slick in a suit. Groomsmen are chosen for a reason – to be the dependable, supportive and composed friends that stand by the groom for one of the most significant moments in his life.

So be proud, be suave, and above all, celebrate. Here’s how to do a fine job as a groomsman and make sure the wedding day runs like clockwork.

1 – BE PUNCTUAL

Wear a new watch. Set five alarms. Arrive an hour early. Do whatever’s necessary so that you (and the groom) are on time to the ceremony. Make sure you know the exact timings of the day, from the wedding breakfast to the speeches. Keep an eye on the clock to help make sure everyone is in the right place at the right time.

2 – BE IN THE LOOP

You’ll wear a suit that clearly identifies you as a groomsman, so prepare to act as a fountain of knowledge for the guests. As well as timings, get clued up on what’s what and who’s who at the wedding. Questions about seating plans, the bar, the relatives, the toilets… you’ll get asked all sorts, so ensure you know the venue and the guest list like the back of your hand.

3 – GREET THE GUESTS

In a cool, understated and polite fashion, you’ll need to act as an usher and take guests to their seats for the ceremony. Traditionally, the guests of the bride sit on the left and the groom’s friends and family sit on the right, but this isn’t always the case. Ask the bride and groom beforehand (not on the day!) for any specific instructions, and always be a gentleman when reminding people that the time has come to take a seat. Escort any elderly people, and be sure to give any grandparents a good view.

4 – GO BEYOND THE CALL OF DUTY

Everyone aims for a slick, seamless wedding, but chances are there will always be the odd hiccup on the big day. As a groomsman, it’s your job to do whatever it takes to prevent problems, however minor, and help solve them as soon as possible. Ensure that the bride and groom are not affected and are unaware of any potential mishaps, and if it directly involves them, do whatever it takes to make it right. Whatever. It. Takes.

5 – BE PREPARED TO DANCE

Now’s your time to shine. It’s always a lot more relaxed once the music starts playing, and as a groomsman, you’ll be expected to lead people to the floor and encourage others to dance. Get the party started by grabbing the hand of a bridesmaid, and put aside a moment to share a dance with the bride. Just don’t tread on anyone’s toes…

6 – LOVE THE GROOM

Above all else, this might be your most important role. First and foremost, you are a friend, and you need to keep the groom calm and composed when he gets the pre-wedding jitters. You’ll also need to do whatever he or his bride ask of you throughout the day. Whether you make him laugh with an anecdote, distract him from getting cold feet, or hand him the tissues if he gets overwhelmed, be the support he needs on his big day.

How to take care of your clothes

 

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR CLOTHES

Words: S. Aslam

Buying new clothes can be very exciting, especially when they make you look good and feel great. However, this moment of excitement can wash away if you don’t take care of your clothes properly. We’ve compiled all the tips and tricks up our sleeves to help you take better care of your clothes and prolong the wear of your favourite items.

Understanding care label symbols

When you are going to wash a new piece of clothing, double check the clothing care symbols, usually found on the labels inside. These symbols will tell you how to best take care of your clothing. But, what do the symbols on those care labels mean?

The international care labelling code is based on five basic symbols:

· Washtub – Washing

· Triangle – Bleaching

· Iron – Ironing

· Circle – Dry cleaning

· Square – Drying

If the symbols look like they have been modified, generally they are giving you extra information, and we advise you not to ignore that. Instructions can also vary depending on the material, fabric textures and colours.

Typically, if you see any of the above symbols with a cross, this usually means you shouldn’t use that method of washing or drying. Once you understand what each clothing care symbol means, this can help maintain the longevity and quality of your clothes.

How to wash your clothes

Some items of clothing need a little more loving care than others based on the material they’re made from. Fabrics like wool, cotton, linen, and merino need to be cared for differently. That’s because they’re more likely to shrink and lose their softness if they’re not cared for properly.

How to keep clothes looking great

Wash at lower temperatures

For many of us, laundry day can be dreaded as the pile of clothes grows, resulting in a bulk wash at 40 degrees. If you can, try to consider whether your washing needs a hot wash or a cold wash to protect the durability of your clothes.

If you want to be more proactive in protecting your clothes, and the environment, we recommend you wash your clothes between 20 to 30 degrees Celsius. Lower temperatures are energy efficient and can help preserve colourfully dyed fabrics.

For tougher stains, 40 degrees is better for your clothes and more energy efficient than 60. It’s also a universal temperature for most materials such as cotton, linen, viscose, and acrylic and the perfect temperature to wash jeans as it can prevent fading and shrinking.

The time to turn up the heat is if you need to fight off bacteria, and a 60 degree wash will kill off most germs. But remember, it can ruin your garments, so always check the label.

How to keep white clothes glowing

Have you ever noticed that the white shirt you wear to work is no longer really white? It could be that you’ve been using too little detergent. Our laundry tip to keep your whites glowing is wash your clothes with the right amount of detergent in the hottest water setting appropriate for the fabric.

If this doesn’t work, a classic homemade hack is adding half a cup of distilled white vinegar to your washing machine’s drum, followed by your load, and then wash as normal. Don’t worry about the strong vinegar-y smell. It will rinse out during the washing cycle.

 Press pause on dry cleaning

Going to the dry cleaners can be a costly process if you are visiting regularly, so you could consider a few home dry-cleaning solutions. Instead of taking your clothes to the dry cleaners to only remove a few crinkles, you could invest in a steamer or check your washing machine for a steam or refresh setting.

Other options include wearing dry-clean-only clothes less or adding an extra layer like a vest to keep the fabric away from your skin and minimise transferring sweat or smells. You can also keep your clothes feeling fresh and clean after wearing them by hanging them up on the line outside or by a window to ventilate the fibres.

Choose the right clothing storage

Another way to take care of your clothes is considering how you store them. Investing in a range of compartments, boxes and organisers can help you sort out your wardrobe from suits to socks.

It’s also a great way to maximise wardrobe space and make outfit hunting a stress-free process. Upgrade your wardrobe organisation skills, whilst protecting your clothing items by adding:

Drawer dividers for your socks and ties
Clothing storage bags for your shirts and trousers 
Garment bags for all your suits, coats, and jackets

Clothing storage solutions are a great way to prevent your wardrobe from becoming overcrowded. Then, rotate your clothing every season and place the previous season into storage boxes to optimise air ventilation and protect everything from smells. Poor ventilation in your wardrobes or clothing storage can produce moist air and cause damp damage to your clothes.

Washing Aftercare

When taking your clothes out of the wash, you’d usually expect them to be clean and smell fresh, but what if they come out with a bit smelly and yellow?

What to do after washing your clothes

Going back to checking your clothing care symbols, you can also find out how to dry your clothing properly on the label.

You can dry your clothes either by airing them or putting them in a tumble dryer. If you use a dryer, we recommend you dry your clothes as soon as you take them out of the washing machine to prevent your clothes from sitting damp for too long which can result in bad smells.

Bad smells can also be avoided by giving your washing machine a maintenance wash to prevent any build-up of mould and the appearance of any black spots which can sometimes be very difficult to remove.

Repair, alter, reuse

With sustainable fashion becoming more prominent in the market, it’s taught us the importance of reusing and repairing our clothes rather than going out to purchase a new shirt or pair of trousers because of a bit of loose stitching.

Consider repairing, altering, or incorporating your older clothes into a new outfit. This can also increase the life of your clothes without harming the environment. It’s good for your pockets, too.

Everything you need to know about lyocell

All the info on the sustainable textile and how we use it at Moss.

 

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT LYOCELL

Words: T. MacInnis

Lyocell has been around for more than 30 years, although the silky-soft textile’s popularity has peaked much more recently. While lyocell is the generic name for the textile, you might have noticed some producers have their own name for it, like Tencel, Newcell and Excel.

But at the end of the day, every version of lyocell is plant-based, grown without toxic chemicals and uses much less water than fabrics like cotton in its production. Read on for everything you need to know about this sustainable textile.

 

WHAT IS LYOCELL?

Lyocell is made from wood cellulose, which you get from dissolving the pulp of typically a eucalyptus or birch tree and then mixing that pulp with amine oxide. The resulting wet mixture is then pushed through a machine that produces lyocell fibres. The yarn that’s spun from those fibres is washed and dried and then woven into fabric. Often, those finished lyocell fibres are processed with something else, like cotton or silk, to improve the texture and function of the fabric.

WHY IS LYOCELL BETTER FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?

Because it’s sourced from both organic and renewable sources, its processing uses relatively little energy and water, and 99.5% of the chemicals used in its production are recycled, lyocell is a very eco-friendly fabric. If something is 100% lyocell, as well, it is 100% biodegradable. In addition to this, the trees needed to source lyocell don’t need pesticides, fertilisers or irrigation to grow. If we compare lyocell to cotton, it uses half as much water in its production process.

 

WHAT MAKES LYOCELL AN IDEAL MATERIAL FOR CLOTHING?

JESS: “It’s a good alternative to cotton, it’s got a beautiful handle, and it’s breathable,” says Jessica Harris, our Head of Product Technology. “It’s also great for colour retention, and absorbs perspiration more.” The only downside, she adds, is that it needs to be washed in cold water, but that’s also better for the environment. All of these benefits that lyocell provides are why we’ve been using the textile for years at Moss throughout our suiting and casual collections.

How to write a modern father of the bride (or groom) speech

A guide by professional speech writers Speechy.

HERE’S HOW TO WRITE A FATHER’S WEDDING SPEECH in 2022

BY PROFESSIONAL SPEECH WRITERS, SPEECHY

 

Whether you’re the father of the bride or the father of the groom, speaking at your grown-up child’s big day can be a daunting prospect. Preparing your speech after the past two years might feel particularly challenging – and emotional.

We asked the wedding speech team at Speechy how to write a modern father’s wedding speech.

 

Words: H. Ellert

 

 

Prepare for the unexpected

Covid has obviously had a huge impact on weddings and there’s still a bit of uncertainty for 2022. But this doesn’t let you off the hook – in fact, it may mean you need to get your speech and all your father-to-dos together earlier rather than later!

Couples who have had to delay their wedding might just want to get on with it and will dive into any window of opportunity they spot. So have the core of your speech ready to go.

Of course, you’ll need to tweak your speech depending on the circumstances and the size of the wedding but don’t put off writing your speech till the wedding date is set. It may be sooner than you think.

 

Dust off the memories

People love nostalgia, and we always want feel-good stories. Unlike most of the people making speeches on the day, you have a whole lifetime of memories to work from, so it may take you a little time to gather them together. Sounds like an excuse to crack open some wine and gather the intel.

Make some notes about things they loved when they were little; funny quirks they had, their guilty pleasures or that boyband member they were convinced they were going to marry when they were 14. Utilise other family members for their recollections.

Chances are, if a memory makes you laugh, it’ll make others laugh too, and that’s what guests want – the personal anecdotes, the real-life humour – NOT the clichéd old jokes you might be tempted to Google. Avoid generic wedding jokes at all costs.

Avoid showing off, too. You might be proud that they got an A in their Geography GCSE but don’t be tempted to recite their CV. Instead, pick the anecdotes that bring their personality to life – or even better, ones that show they haven’t changed at all since they were five years old. Do they still have a tantrum when they can’t have a second dessert?

 

Tell a story

Don’t feel bogged down by traditional etiquette. Nowadays weddings are far less formal, and memorable speeches are the ones which take the audience on a journey of some kind – goodness knows they need it after the past two years.

A theme can help with the structure of your speech. Look at the collection of anecdotes you’ve gathered and see whether there’s a subject that weaves them together, especially if that subject gives us a little insight into what their new partner is letting themselves in for.

Start at the beginning with stories from their childhood through their adolescence (this is where you can really get your own back for all their teenage antics) and end with some observations on how they’ve grown since they’ve been with their partner.

Generally, good speeches are around 75% humour, 25% heartfelt and emotional. The perfect speech has them rolling in the aisles, then sobbing into their profiteroles at the end.

 

Don’t drag it out

Let’s face it, you’ve got so much material on your child, it’s going to be difficult to keep it short, but please do! We suggest aiming for six to eight minutes, which is about 1000–1,200 words max.

You may want to keep that anecdote about how much they loved their little pet rabbit Flopsy, but short and sweet is the key to a memorable speech. Leave them wanting more – you can always share some stories at the bar later.

 

 

Pay a proper tribute to your new daughter or son-in-law

It’s been an isolating time for so many people, but this speech is your opportunity to remind everyone that weddings are about bringing two families together.

Hopefully you’ve already got a good relationship with your son- or daughter-in-law, so feel free to share anecdotes about them, too. What did you think when you first met them? What was the turning point when you realised they weren’t a wrongun? What have you two bonded over personally?

Again, the key to making this seem sincere is to avoid platitudes and, instead, be specific about the person you’re paying tribute to. Rather than talking about what a decent fella the groom is, talk about the fact he’s the only West Brom fan you can tolerate and concede that he can indeed make better Yorkshire Puddings than you.

 

Check what the expectations of you are

It’s nice to thank Great Aunty Doris for flying in all the way from her commune in Brazil, but find out whether anyone else is planning on doing it too. No one wants to sit through three versions of the same tedious thank yous.

Many families nowadays have delicate dynamics, with parents who aren’t on speaking terms, or possibly won’t be attending on the day. Check with the bride and groom how they want you to manage that in your speech. Weddings can be highly emotional days, and family feuds are the last thing anyone wants stirring up with buckets of champagne floating around.

 

Take it off the page

It’s all very well sitting down and writing a brilliant, heartwarming, rip-roaring speech but remember, you’re going to have to say this out loud at some point. In front of actual people.

The key is practice, practice, practice. Not just in your head, but out loud. Something may read well on the page but be a total tongue twister when spoken.

Feel free to use notes on the day (it’s absolutely acceptable as long as you try to maintain eye contact with the guests) but do try to memorise your speech so you’re at least familiar with the flow of it.

Top tips: write it out by hand three times, and read it out loud before going to bed for a week. Both have been proven to help commit a speech to memory.

 

Prepare to give a virtual speech

None of us were quite ready for the speed with which this new Zoom era came around, but the internet has been a lifeline to many people stuck at home over the past two years. While Covid regulations are gone, the newlyweds may still plan on live streaming the speeches so that more guests can join the day’s celebrations.

Delivering your speech to a screen of 100 expectant faces needn’t feel any different from speaking to a room full of people – only this way you have the option of muting everyone. The usual rules apply – keep the laughter coming, the thank yous short, and resist the urge to include too many in-jokes.

Feel free to gather sweet or irreverent marriage advice from Zoom guests ahead of the day to relay to the happy couple in your speech and ensure virtual guests still feel included.

 

Honour the dearly departed

There are often recently-departed loved ones who are sadly missing from a wedding. Consider offering a toast to the dearly departed, or even to those who couldn’t make the wedding due to self-isolating. Keep this heartfelt but light – don’t descend into melancholy. Perhaps:

‘Here’s to our lovely Lilian, who’d have complained that my speech was too long and the best man’s wasn’t dirty enough. I’ll now raise a glass of her favourite tipple – a Harvey Wallbanger. Keep being naughty, Lil.’

Then bring your speech back to a warm, optimistic focus on the happy couple, with a toast that reflects the unique character of their relationship and complements the theme of your speech.

 

Prepare to deliver

A big smile to start will help your audience to relax, and hopefully you too. Welcome everyone to the wedding, introduce yourself and then go straight in with some humour. An early ring of laughter will give you all the confidence you need to go on.

Speak slower than you would in a normal conversation and pick out a few people you love and trust to maintain eye contact with as you speak.

Remember, everyone in the room is on your side, so it’s almost impossible for you to fail. Just enjoy it.

 

Speechy is a team of ex-BBC TV scriptwriters who now specialise in wedding speeches. Make a speech to be proud of with Speechy’s quality speech templates, speech edit service or their bespoke speech writing service.

 

Everything you need to know about recycled polyester

All the info on the recycled textile and how we use it at Moss.

 

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT RECYCLED POLYESTER

Words: T. MacInnis

Did you know that almost half of the clothing in the world is made from polyester, a stat that’s set to double by 2030? Unfortunately, because polyester is made from plastic (specifically, polyethylene terephthalate, or PET), it’s not so great for the environment.

But, the good news is, more and more polyester is being made from recycled plastic. That goes for a lot of the clothing we produce at Moss, too. Read on to learn more about recycled polyester and what makes it less harmful for the environment.

 

WHAT IS RECYCLED POLYESTER?

Recycled polyester is polyester made with post-consumer recycled materials. “Our eco suit is made from recycled plastic bottles,” says Jessica Harris, the Head of Product Technology here at Moss. Because plastic bottles are made from PET, the same thing polyester is made from, they make an ideal material for recycled polyester. The plastic bottles are cleaned and crushed into small pieces, then heated and spun into yarn. That yarn is passed through a machine that makes it fluffy, and it’s knitted into fabric.

WHY IS POLYESTER BAD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?

“Because it takes hundreds of years to break down,” says Jessica. “But that doesn’t mean that recycled doesn’t either.” While recycled polyester isn’t the best, most eco-friendly alternative to polyester, it’s still utilising waste that would otherwise end up in landfill. It’s always better to use existing plastics rather than making virgin plastic, which is what non-recycled polyester is.

 

WHAT MAKES POLYESTER AN IDEAL MATERIAL FOR CLOTHING?

Polyester was invented almost 100 years ago, and it’s since become one of the world’s most popular textiles. There are several reasons for that. “It’s durable, it’s an insulator, it’s quick drying and it’s easy to clean,” explains Jessica. That’s why we use polyester in so many Moss pieces, and why we’re pushing to use more recycled polyester throughout all our collections.

HOW LONG HAS MOSS BEEN USING RECYCLED POLYESTER?

At Moss, we’ve been using recycled polyester for more than three years. “All of our recycled polyester suits have been a success, including the eco suit,” says Jessica. We’re aiming to make more clothes with recycled polyester, because we know our customers don’t just want to look good in their Moss clothes, they also want to feel good about reducing their impact on the planet.