Archive for July, 2022

Double-breasted vs single-breasted suits

Here’s how to work out which you should invest in.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE AND WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU WEAR?

• WORDS: A. FOZZARD

Yes, they’re back: double-breasted suits are having their biggest moment since the ’80s. They’re the suits to go for if you want to make a statement, but that doesn’t mean you should ditch your favourite single-breasted ones altogether.

Here’s how to work out which you should invest in.

SINGLE-BREASTED OR DOUBLE-BREASTED? WHAT HISTORY SAYS

The 1920s kicked off the competition between the two styles. Rebels made a statement in simpler single-breasted suits and more conservative men stuck with double-breasted. During World War II, double-breasted suits fell out of favour altogether after cloth rationing made them difficult to produce.

Single-breasted suits won for quite a while – through to the ’80s in fact. Then, double-breasted suits had their moment in the spotlight in the ’80s and ’90s (think James Bond and the Wolf of Wall Street – long, broad and loose with big shoulders). The powerful silhouette found some very famous fans at the time including HRH Prince Charles and experimental dresser David Bowie. However, in day-to-day life, they didn’t really catch on beyond City bankers. That was until now, and tailors have gone back to the drawing board.

WHAT ARE DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS LIKE TODAY?

Thankfully, suits tailored today are much sharper. They’re shorter and have a narrower waist, especially if you go for a slim fit. They can have six or four buttons. Cut to flatter, they’ve got wide peak lapels to broaden your chest and draw the eyes upwards to make you appear taller.

Single-breasted suits have also had a slimming down with defined waists and usually only one or two-button fastenings on the more minimalist styles.

In short: single and double-breasted suits are level pegging in the style stakes now. Both are sharp, both are stylish.

WHEN SHOULD YOU WEAR A SINGLE-BREASTED OR DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT?

There’s no hard and fast rule, though that would make life easier. Whenever you would normally wear a suit, like for work or a formal occasion, you could wear either option.

If your smart-wear wardrobe is already made up of single-breasted suits, a double-breasted option might just be your not-so-secret weapon for getting noticed. They’re a big trend at the moment, and you’ll definitely make a statement when you wear one. Some men prefer to save them for special occasions, but you could definitely hold your head high in a double-breasted suit at the office.

HOW TO WEAR A DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT

Follow these three rules and you’ll look stylish and feel confident in your double-breasted suit.

1. CHOOSE A GREAT CUT
Whether it’s slim or tailored fit, it’ll help define your shape. The narrower the cut, the sharper the look.
2. ONLY FASTEN ONE BUTTON
That’s the middle one on six-buttoned suits and the top one on four-buttoned suits. Keep it fastened all the time, or at least until you sit down.
3. PARE BACK YOUR OUTFIT
Your double-breasted suit does all the talking, so keep the rest of your look simple with a light-toned shirt worn open-necked or make it less formal by wearing just the jacket with a different pair of tailored trousers and a knitted jumper.

Find your perfect Peaky Blinders-inspired suit

From Tommy to Arthur to Sabini, we have all the looks you need to channel the iconic characters.

 

GET THE PEAKY LOOK WITH THESE SUITS

Words: T. MacInnis

Thanks to our tailoring expertise that spans almost two decades, we know a thing or two about suits. That’s why Moss is the official outfitter for Peaky Blinders: The Rise, a brand new immersive experience based on the hit show. And, since audience members are encouraged to blend in with the cast, we’re also the ideal place for your show-ready outfit.

Below are seven suiting ideas based on the iconic characters from the show and the tailoring codes from the 1920s. Pick your favourite and then get ready to help the Shelby family take over London.

Sage-green tweed

This is the same tweed we dressed Arthur Shelby in for the show, and while it is a classic ’20s fabrication, our tweed is still breathable and ideal for all four seasons. Wear this one with the matching tweed waistcoat for the show, then rewear it with a crisp white shirt for all your smart-casual events.

Khaki Donegal tweed

Our khaki Donegal tweed with its characteristic flecks would look right at home on a ’20s Birmingham street. Go for this one if Tommy’s your favourite character, and then look to it for any occasion that calls for a darker suit. Unlike black suits or even charcoal suits, this deep khaki colour is a great way to inject a bit of personality into a formal look.

Blue Donegal tweed

Another Donegal tweed look, this time in a versatile navy. If you’re heading to Peaky Blinders: The Rise, definitely include the waistcoat, and pair it with a vintage-inspired tie and tie bar. Then, this suit will take you just about anywhere, from the office to a wedding.

Italian blue

If Sabini is more your inspiration, or any other American-Italian gangster, go with our Barberis blue suit. Made from Italian-milled wool, it’s got an elevated look and a universally-flattering cut. Pair this one with the matching waistcoat, a colourful tie, and maybe even a fedora for the perfect Italian finish.

Barberis brown

Another suit made with super luxe Italian-milled fabric, go for this suit if you want something a bit more neutral. Again, it’ll look great with the waistcoat for the show, and then you can split up the pieces and wear them just about anywhere throughout the rest of the summer.

Lighter Donegal tweed

Back to the Shelby family, our stone Donegal tweed suit ideally with all three pieces, will have you looking the part. Pair it with a flat cap and brogues when you head to Camden Garrison, and then reach for it as this year’s wedding season kicks into high gear.

Checked three-piece

If you relate more to the Shelby’s cousin, Michael, go with a three-piece checked suit. Our charcoal eco suit, made with 71% recycled fibres, fits the bill. Then, it’ll work just as well for a wedding later in the year when you pair it with a pastel tie and pocket square.

Now that you’ve got your Peaky suit sorted, get your tickets for Peaky Blinders: The Rise right here.

Get the look: celebrity weddings, men’s suit edition

How to copy your favourite celebrity wedding looks from 2022, with a little help from Moss.

 

WEDDING SUIT INSPO FROM STYLISH CELEBS

Words: S. Aslam

Although the pandemic has caused a lot of disruption to weddings, there are a few lucky grooms who managed to say their vows.

While it’s usually a wedding dress that gets all the attention, we’ve always got an eye on the suits when it comes to our favourite celebrity weddings.

How to get the celebrity wedding suit look

From Brooklyn Beckham’s classic choice in a custom-made peak lapel tailcoat to James Middleton’s bold choice for a summer wedding, recent celebrity weddings are a great source of inspiration for men’s wedding suits in 2022.

Whether you’re looking for some help with what to wear to your wedding (in that case, congratulations!) or simply looking for the latest trends in men’s wedding suits, we’ve compiled a few of our favourite men’s wedding suit looks and how you can recreate their outfits.

Brooklyn Beckham

 

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Brooklyn Beckham and Nicola Peltz’s wedding was one of the most talked-about celebrity weddings this year. The two were able to tie the knot and say their ‘I dos’ at the Peltz family oceanfront Palm Beach estate.

Standing out in a custom-made suit from Dior, Brooklyn Beckham opted for a classic wedding suit including a black wool peak lapel tailcoat with a silver chain and matching trousers. He also wore a white cotton wing-tip collar shirt with plastron pique and jewellery buttons, a white bow tie and pocket square, and black polished leather shoes.

Brooklyn’s choice was a great example of less is more, and that you can make your groom’s outfit stand out by adding a few smaller touches like metal chains, or additional detailing to your shirt.

Below are a few pieces we’ve picked out to help you get a similar look to Brooklyn Beckham.

James Middleton

 

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Brother of the Duchess of Cambridge, James Middleton, married Alizée Thevent in France last September and looked incredible.

Pairing a classic choice of colours, the groom opted to wear a stone-coloured linen suit with a blue cotton shirt and blue tie, perfectly complimenting the beautiful weather and the location, Bormes-les-Mimosas.

If you are looking to complete the aesthetic of your farmhouse or summer wedding, we have you covered.

Juan David Borrero

 

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Juan David Borrero, the son of Ecuador’s current Vice President, recently tied the knot with Victoria Secret model Jasmine Tookes. The wedding took place in the capital city of Ecuador and looked like an absolute fairytale.

While Jasmine looked like a princess, our attention was just as much on Juan. The groom chose to wear a custom-made suit by Armani, with a double-breasted tuxedo and black polished leather shoes.

Are you taken by Juan and Jasmine’s wedding looks as much as we are? Here are a few pieces we have picked out so you can look like a royal at your wedding, too.

Harry Herbert

 

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The Honourable Harry Herbert, godson of the Queen, tied the knot with TV chef Clodagh McKenna. The wedding took place at the 5,000-acre estate of Highclere Castle in Hampshire, more commonly known as the Downtown Abbey Estate.

A high society union like this one can only mean one thing: a high-class dress code. Whilst Clodagh looked stunning on their big day, our eyes were on Harry Herbert’s wedding suit. The Earl opted for a classy look in a morning suit he paired with a double-breasted cream waistcoat and a light blue tie, with a floral boutonniere to complement his bride’s bouquet.

Mix and match your colours, patterns and textures to suit your personality. Shop to get your high society look here.

Harry Maguire

 

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Just this week, Manchester United footballer Harry Maguire married his childhood sweetheart, Fern Hakwins, at a stunning chateau in France.

For the lavish French affair, Harry chose a taupe three-piece suit with contrasting buttons, a crisp white shirt and chocolate brown accessories. It’s a modern update on a classic look thanks to the monochrome feel and the single-breasted jacket and waistcoat.

Go monochrome with your summer suiting look and opt for a taupe linen with tonal brown or beige accessories, and a pocket square that ties it all together.

How to style a wedding suit like a celebrity

If you are looking at styling your wedding suit like a celebrity – the key is to focus on the smaller details, remembering less is more.

When shopping for your wedding suit, it’s important to make sure you don’t look like you’re going to the office. You can avoid this by paying attention to the finer details like pinstripes or three buttons on suit jackets. You want to stand out from the crowd, so why not consider a three-piece, one-button or peak-lapel suit?

Another way to style your wedding outfit to look like a celebrity is by customising your suit. Book an appointment for our Custom Made service to get a look that’s inspired by your favourite celebrity look, but unique to you.

For men’s wedding suits, finishing touches, like personalising your handkerchief and matching your suit lining to your bride’s flowers, can help make your big day feel even more special. To sharpen up your look even more, add a set of gold onyx or mother-of-pearl dress studs to complement your dress shirt.

Complement your partner. Accessorise your suit. Shop now to find your celebrity look.

Get to know: sports jackets vs. blazers vs. suit jackets

What’s the difference and where to wear them.

A DEFINITIVE JACKET GUIDE

Words: L. Thorpe

In need of a new jacket but can’t work out what to wear? We’ve got the lowdown on three different styles – sports jackets, blazers and suit jackets – that you need in your wardrobe right now.

What are sports jackets?

Sports jackets – also known as sport coats – were originally designed to be worn during traditional sporting activities like hunting. Over time they’ve evolved into something that men used to wear for occasions that were less formal and didn’t need a suit. They’re still considered a smart outfit, though they’re no longer linked with the outdoors or sports.

You can pick up sports jackets in lots of different colours and patterns (some of the more old school styles still have elbow patches, ticket pockets and pleats). Flannel, tweed, herringbone and houndstooth are some common fabrics you’ll find them made from. They also aren’t as structured or fitted as a suit jacket.

Sports jackets are the least formal jacket style versus blazers and jackets, so they’re best paired with jeans or casual trousers. Just try not match them with trousers that are the same colour or fabric as your jacket to avoid that matching suit look. Because they’re a looser fit, they work well when it comes to layering. Think men’s knitwear like chunky sweaters, jumpers and turtlenecks under your sports jacket.

What are blazers?

A blazer is more fitted and formal than a sports jacket, but is still less formal than a suit. It sits in the middle of the two and helps to smarten up an outfit that would otherwise be way more casual. This style of jacket was originally inspired by naval uniforms, but quickly became more popular as workwear and leisure wear.

Traditionally, all blazers were navy blue but this has changed over time. You can now grab a blazer in most colours, fabrics and textures. They’re more tailored than a sports jacket and usually have buttons down the middle. There’s no rule about whether you wear them double-breasted or single breasted either, it’s totally down to your own preference.

Wear your blazer with denim, khaki or chinos and a T-shirt for a more dressed-down look. If you’re wanting to make it more formal, try a shirt and tie or a turtleneck. You can wear them with any type of shoe, just match them to the rest of your outfit.

What are suit jackets?

Suit jackets are the most formal style out of the three different types. The biggest difference with a suit jacket is that it’s designed to be worn as part of a suit, and has a matching set of trousers (and sometimes a vest or waistcoat too). This doesn’t mean that you can’t wear your suit jacket by itself, it just means that they come as a pair.

Suits tend to be worn for work and dressier events like weddings, dinners and the races. There are lots of different styles of suits depending on where you’re headed. You can get a men’s suit in most colours, materials and patterns, but a key difference is that they usually have less embellishments than blazers or sports jackets. They’re also usually the most fitted of the three pieces, so don’t usually work as well for layering with other items of clothing.

The best way to wear a suit jacket is the classic way: as part of a suit with a crisp shirt and tie, depending on the occasion. Still, if you wear them with jeans or chinos for more dressed-down events, no-one ever needs to know. They usually work best with a more formal footwear to match with their fitted, formal style.

What other jacket styles do you need to know about?

There are a lot of other men’s jacket styles out there, all of which work with different outfits and for different occasions. They come in different fits and styles too, so if you prefer a slim fit, or a looser one, it’s worth experimenting with different styles and types of jackets to find your favourite fit. Experimenting with styles, colours and fabrics can totally change up your look.

For really formal events there are dinner jackets, dress jackets and tuxedo jackets. These traditionally come in black, navy and neutral tones but this does vary depending on the look you’re going for. In some cases – such as black tie – you usually need to stick to the dress code.

If you’re keeping it casual, then something like a shacket or bomber jacket can be a great finishing touch to your outfit. Both fits are relaxed and work well for dressed-down, casual days. These definitely aren’t the outfit to throw on for a formal event, but they’ll keep you looking stylish for when things are more chilled.

Check out men’s smart jackets on Moss.

How to tie a half-Windsor knot

Here’s how you can achieve the perfect Half-Windsor.

 

MASTER THE HALF-WINDSOR KNOT

Words: L. Thorpe

Been told that you need to tie a Half-Windsor knot but don’t really know how to get it done? Here’s what to you need to know about this men’s tie style.

What is a Half Windsor knot?

A Half-Windsor Knot – also sometimes known as a Single Windsor Knot – is a symmetrical style of knot used to tie a necktie. It leaves a neat triangular knot that’s more that’s bigger than the Four-In-Hand Knot and Pratt Knot, but smaller than a Windsor Knot. It’s not actually half the size of a Windsor Knot, it’s more like three quarters of the size, but does come from that formal style.

It goes back to the days of the Duke of Windsor, where men took inspiration from the style of his wide knot tie. The style of the knot itself is thick, wide and symmetrical. It works best with light and medium weight fabrics and is brought up around the loop on one side rather than on both.

A Half-Windsor Knot is best for occasions when you have to dress smartly or want to make an effort, like a business meeting or event, but you don’t need to be extremely formal. It’s still a smart style, but has less formality and is more relaxed than some of the other types of necktie knots out there.

How do you tie a Half Windsor knot?

Tying a Half-Windsor Knot is pretty straightforward once you get the hand of it. You might want to practice a little bit in front of a mirror rather than going all-in on the day you want to wear it, especially if you’re not familiar with how to tie a tie in a more formal way.

Start out with the wide end of the tie sitting about 30 centimetres below the narrow end. Cross the wide end over the narrow end and bring the wide end up, around and behind the narrow end. Lift the wide end up and pull it through the loop.

Then bring the wide end around the front, over the narrow end, from left to right. Bring them wide end up and through the loop, before bringing it back down through the knot in front. Using both hands, tighten the knot carefully and bring it up to the collar.

There you have a Half-Windsor Knot that looks great with almost any style of shirt and suit, whatever the occasion.

Other men’s tie styles to try

The Full Windsor knot (also known as the Double Windsor) is the inspiration behind the Half-Windsor Knot, so if you want something to go with a more formal look or even then you should check out if the Full Windsor is going to be a better option.

The Four-In-Hand Knot is a more formal style to try out, usually with a dress shirt for formal occasions. If you decide that a Four-in-Hand Knot isn’t for you, then there are some other casual tie styles that you can try.

If you want to go even more casual than the Half-Windsor, try the Pratt Knot. This ties with a slightly bigger knot and looks great with a skinny knot. It’s also a good style for taller men as it makes the tie longer. The Trinity Knot is another casual tie style that uses a three-fold knot to create something a little different.

Ready to try a new tie style? Check out men’s formal ties and start practicing your necktie knotting skills.

A short guide to men’s trousers

Get your foundations right.

SUIT TROUSERS, CHINOS OR SOMETHING IN BETWEEN?

GET YOUR FOUNDATIONS RIGHT

• WORDS: R. TOOK

Any suit expert at Moss. will tell you that the variety of legwear options out there is complex and sometimes difficult to navigate (brands, fits, lengths, widths), and one of the most common questions we get is this:

“Do you have anything more formal than a chino, but less formal than a suit trouser?”

The answer, in short, is yes. Let’s discuss.

 

SHOP TROUSERS

LET’S START WITH SUIT TROUSERS

The suit trouser is one that is endlessly versatile, and you are spoilt for choice. Classic characteristics of suit trousers are a flat or pleated front, a formal crease down the front and back of both legs, and a slanted pocket at the thigh. Found in almost any two or three-piece. Excellent in wool.

CHINOS AREN’T HISTORY

A staple of menswear, the chino is a cotton twill style created years ago for military uniforms because of its durability, strength in weave and ease of wear. Classically cut in khaki cotton, today chinos come in all sorts of colours, both trending and timeless.

LINEN TROUSERS, A SUMMER STAPLE

Linen is the ideal fabric for summer since it’s cool and breathable. That means linen trousers are a breezier, smarter alternative to jeans in the summer. Pair yours with a knitted polo for work, tuck in a T-shirt for a night out, or wear the matching linen overshirt for a twist on a summer suit.

SO WHERE IS THE MIDDLE GROUND?

Here. Now the smart trouser is one that dips into both garments and takes inspiration: it gives you an option for those moments when you need to be on form, even if you’re going informal (or not even leaving the house). Our line-up includes checks, Donegal and trending block colours that are ideal for the day-to-day wearer. The check trousers shown here are also woven with extra stretch for comfort – aren’t you winning? Yes, you are.