Archive for February, 2024

Mill focus: Barberis

Three centuries, 13 generations and always-exceptional cloth.

Moss - Barberis Italian tailored fit navy stripe jacket

A CLOSE LOOK AT BARBERIS, ONE OF THE EXCEPTIONAL MILLS WE WORK WITH IN BIELLA, ITALY.

 

• WORDS: C. STEWART

 

Founded in 1663, Vitale Barberis Canonico is a family-run Italian mill that’s world-renowned for its pure wool cloths. Based in the Italian province of Biella, thirteen generations of the Barberis Canonico family have washed, spun, dyed and hand-finished the world’s best raw materials into its much-celebrated fabrics.

With over three centuries honing its technical ability, Barberis reinterprets its vast archive of fabrics with subtle adjustments in weight, handle and design to match modern trends and tastes – and, as a result, has the world’s leading menswear designers lining up to use its signature cloths in their collections.

 

 

Its most famous output is its flannel wool cloth. Robust and insulating, flannel has natural drape and warmth as well as a wonderfully soft brushed finish. In Barberis’ hands, it’s made from super 120s wool and complemented in suiting with a softer shoulder construction typical of more laidback Italian style.

 

Moss - Italian Barberis tailored fit brown suit

 

The mill is also revered for its fabric blends, like the wool, silk and linen blend we’ve selected this season. The addition of linen makes for a lighter, breathable fabric, while silk adds a smooth handfeel and a soft lustre. Cut on our tailored block, the result is a quietly elegant suit that’ll elevate your event options.

 

 

Every Moss suit crafted from Barberis fabric comes in traditional half-canvas construction across the chest and lapel, enhancing the cloth’s drape and allowing it to mould to your frame over time. Waistcoats also nod to heritage style with elegant lapels that look refined layered under a suit jacket.

Aside from the beautiful cloth, we’ve also added finely crafted finishings – Italian style might be intended to look effortless, but closer inspection reveals precise care in the details. Look out for horn buttons, contrast undercollars and fine pick stitching.

 

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Well-dressed date: What to wear on Valentine’s Day

Need some ideas for what to wear as your Valentine’s date outfit? Wherever you’re headed, Moss has you covered.

HERE’S WHAT TO WEAR THIS VALENTINE’S DAY

Words: C. Saramowicz

 

You’ve got the dinner reservation, ordered the flowers, and nabbed the gift they’ve been talking about for months. Now, all you need is an outfit worthy of the date.

Naturally, your look will be dictated by your setting – it’s highly unlikely you’ll be wearing a suit to a bowling alley – but sometimes it can be difficult to gauge what level of smart (or casual) to go for.

Read on to see our go-to outfit options that will work for every Valentine’s plan.

 

Dinner Date

No matter where you’re headed for dinner, a nice suit will always score some Brownie points. Take it up a notch by going for a double breasted suit in a deep ink tone – crafted from a wool blend with added stretch, it’s got a hydrophobic coating which means you’ll be safe from any spillages all night. It’s also cut to a tailored fit, helping you feel on-point whether you’re going to a Michelin-star joint or a local favourite. Pair it with your favourite non-iron white shirt (to save you some time) and some polished double monks.

If you do want to tone down the look, swap out your shirt for a knitted tee and open up the jacket for easy elegance.

 

Date Night Cocktails

Cocktail bars leave room for a bit of experimentation when it comes to outfit choices. Smart-casual is usually your best bet, but if you want to feel extra sharp, go for a double breasted cord suit in a deep copper tone. Want to ease it up a bit? Remove the jacket and you’ve got a more casual version of the look by pairing it with a neutral coloured merino mock neck. It’ll likely be quite cold in February, which also makes this combination ideal for keeping you cosy. Finish with a pair of tonal chunky loafers for a modern touch.

 

Date in the Daytime

Valentine’s Day doesn’t always have to be reserved for the evening – sometimes the best dates involve daytime activities. If you’re planning on going for a long walk, spending the morning in a coffee shop or perusing the local markets, you’ll be forgiven for wearing something a bit more relaxed. Start with a comfy trouser crafted from a stretch blend. With an internal drawstring for ease of movement, you’ll have day-long comfort that can easily transition to the evening. Pair this with a heavyweight t-shirt in a dark charcoal tone – ours has been peached for extra softness.

For the top layer, invest in a liner jacket. These are a staple for between seasons, the lightweight construction perfect for days that require something a bit airier. Then, add a pair of chunky trainers and you’ve got a casual, fresh look that’s worthy of any date you’ve got planned.

How to wear a brown suit

The brow suit has returned in modern silhouettes and contemporary shades.

 

HOW TO FIND THE RIGHT BROWN SUIT FOR EVERY OCCASION

Words: C.Saramowicz

 

The brown suit is finally making a comeback. First popularised in the 1930s with a resurgence in the early 70s, brown suiting fell off the radar for many years, with the sleeker black, navy and grey hues taking precedent. However, brown suits are more than just your dad’s old blazer – they’ve been restructured and revived into modern shapes and fresh tones. Let’s see how you can fit a brown suit into your current wardrobe.

 

Moss - slim fit camel flannel suit

Get married in a brown suit

Brown may not be your first choice for a wedding, but take the tone up a few notches and you’ve got a radiant sand colour that works perfectly as a neutral base. Our camel twill suit is crafted from 100% wool that is both comfy and breathable, handy if you’ll be wearing it all day long. It’s also cut to a flattering tailored fit that sits neatly across the shoulders and arms.

Once you have your base, accessorise to your heart’s content – if you want to go for a more traditional look, pair with a crisp white shirt and silk tie, or play around with colour by adding a pop of blue or silver depending on your theme. Add the matching waistcoat to refine things further.

 

Moss - slim fit brown tweed suit

Wear a brown suit to the office

Office suits don’t have to be tiresome – cut it to a slim fit and add a herringbone weave and you’ve got a contemporary tweed that’ll look just as good with a white shirt as it will with a knit. This one has the addition of a waistcoat, making it great for weddings too. Finish off with a woven tie for an additional bit of texture.

 

Slim fit - copper cord double breasted jacket

Wear a brown suit on a night out

Double breasted suits are often reserved for more formal events, but if you like looking extra sharp for nights out too, this copper cord is a great option. Crafted from a fine needlecord and cut to a slim fit, it’s got an extra bit of stretch for ease of movement while still keeping you smart.

Copper tones have been making the rounds lately, and for good reason – they’re a great way to add colour without being too intense. Pair it with a tonal knit and become the evening’s subtle statement maker.

 

Moss - slim fit taupe matt linen double breasted suit

Wear a brown suit to a wedding

Taupe is great for weddings as it’s got a hint of grey, meaning it’s a suitably neutral base to build your look off of. If you’re heading to a more formal wedding, this double breasted linen suit will keep cool and can be styled in a multitude of ways; pair with a tonal tie for a head-to-toe taupe look, or choose a bright tie and pocket square combo to liven it up a bit. If it’s a more casual affair, swap out your shirt for a knitted tee and open the jacket up for a relaxed take.

What to wear for a spring wedding

Seasonal wedding outfits, this way.
Moss - dusty pink wedding suit

 

WHAT TO WEAR TO A SPRING WEDDING

Words: A. Fozzard

It’s a fact: people love to get married in spring. It’s probably got something to do with longer days and the likelihood of a bit of sunshine, but we think it’s also about the romance and optimism of a new start.

And dressing up for a spring wedding is good fun. Soft spring suit shades like light blue and grey come into their own in here – choose a blue suit if you’re wearing neutral-shade accessories, and grey tailoring for those brighter colours like pink, yellow, orange and teal. For a destination wedding, linen always makes sense. A neutral linen suit with an unexpected knitted polo underneath can make things feel a bit more casual. And of course, we couldn’t talk about spring weddings without a mention of a tweed three-piece suit. Try yours with a tonal tie for a more formal affair.

PLAY WITH COLOUR

Spring weddings are a great opportunity to lean into lighter and brighter tones – pastel blue, soft pink and oatmeal all work well as a spring suit for warmer celebrations. Our light blue Donegal and dusty pink DKNY suits are cut on our neatly tailored slim-fit block and crafted from a wool blend for breathable warmth. Wear them with the matching waistcoat and a tonal tie for a cohesive look, or go for a more relaxed aesthetic and swap out your shirt for a merino mock neck.

Muted tones are a great way of easing into wearing colour without feeling too intimidated.

 

Moss - tailored fit copper flannel suit

DRESS FOR THE WEATHER

One minute it’s raining, the next it’s beaming sunshine – welcome to spring in the UK. It’s safe to assume it won’t be freezing or boiling, but the middle ground can be just as tricky to dress for.

We recommend banking on a mid-weight fabric, so nothing too heavy like thick wool and nothing too light like hopsack. Look for a worsted fabric in a weight of around 350g or less.

 

The weight of your suit will also be influenced by its construction. A lightweight suit will have light or no shoulder padding, minimal interlinings and a half or buggy lining. The lighter the structure, the breezier the suit. A traditional spring suit will have more structured shoulders and perhaps a half-canvas construction – a luxury addition that will help the suit mould to your frame over time, but will also lock heat in. Consider the wedding date and how much of the day will be spent inside/outside and choose your suit weight accordingly.

 

 

ADD SEASONAL ACCESSORIES

Your choice of accessories is where you can really up the ‘spring’ feel of your outfit. Handy if you’ve moved your wedding date and need to make a darker suit feel more seasonal.

Sunny shades like sage, pale blue, coral and pink are springtime classics that look great with both light and dark shades of suit. They tend to feature in springtime flowers too, so you should be able to match your buttonhole to your accessories easily if you’re in the wedding party. If you’ve gone for a green or brown tweed suit, you can set off the earthy tones and still look cheery for spring with a printed tie.

Of course, if you’re the groom or in the wedding party, your suit and accessory choice might be dictated by what the bridesmaids are wearing. If you’d like to coordinate without outright matching, you can soften the look by wearing two pocket squares, one neutral and one in the theme colour.

If you need some advice on what to wear for weddings all year round, our wedding dress code guide has it all laid out.

Spotlight on: the unstructured jacket

Softer shoulders, minimal linings and relaxed fabrics designed to lighten the load on dressed-up days.

A RELAXED YET REFINED CHOICE

Words: C. Saramowicz

 

The terms ‘unlined’ and ‘unstructured’ have become more prominent in men’s fashion over the last few years. With menswear shifting into more casual territory, relaxed approaches to suiting have also started to popularise again, with more men choosing unstructured pieces alongside their standard suits.

But what is an unlined jacket, and where is the best place to wear it? Answers below.

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Moss - navy Hoxton jacket

What is an unlined jacket?

The word ‘unlined’ refers to just that – jackets without an interior lining. Most suit blazers are lined with either canvas or some kind of padding to maintain their shape. Unlined jackets do away with all of that, resulting in a looser construction and lighter weight. Some still feature shoulder pads for a more defined profile, but the idea is to generally have less rigidity and much more room for movement.

Unlined jackets tend to have all the features of standard suit jackets – lapels, pockets and single button closures – but are far more akin to a smart shacket or overshirt. They’re usually cut from more casual-leaning fabrics, offering versatility when it comes to styling, and generally feel comfier and more relaxed to wear.

 

Moss - Copper Hoxton jacket

Where would you wear an unlined jacket?

Because of the softer nature of the fit, unlined jackets offer a slightly more relaxed profile than standard suit jackets. This means they are very well suited for casual occasions like evening drinks or birthday parties, all while maintaining a level of smart.

Summer is a great opportunity to try out unstructured fits – the lack of lining offers far more breathability and works great if you’re going to be out all day but still need to look the part. A warm-weather wedding, for example, would be the perfect excuse for an unstructured linen blazer. Or, if you’re on holiday and want to add a level of formality to your evening dinner, an unlined jacket over a casual tee and a pair of chinos would hit the spot.

 

Moss - blue textured wool jacket

How to style your unlined jacket?

Due to their versatility, unlined jackets can be worn in a wealth of ways.

If you’re looking for an elevated look, you can still dress up an unstructured jacket despite its more relaxed shape. Combine our dark-blue Italian wool jacket with a white poplin shirt and dark-coloured trousers for a polished work look that’s smart without being stiff.

For something a bit more relaxed, our Copper Hoxton can act as a standout piece in a neutral outfit. When paired with a white mock neck and white chinos, it adds a shot of texture and colour, elevating the overall look without feeling too over-the-top. And with added stretch, it’ll keep you comfortable too.

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