Keeping workers cool in the tropics since the ’50s, the Cuban collar shirt’s a modern summer essential.

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Where do Cuban collar shirts come from?

Cuban shirts were worn in many private and public settings. In Cuba, the style was often seen on soldiers and later by government officials, becoming increasingly popular with citizens too. In Mexico, the shirt was also worn for governmental activities but was most popular during wedding celebrations too.  

Today, the long-sleeved guayabera is still worn as a form of national dress code by state officials in Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. However, traces of the guayabera are now mainly found in shirt collars, namely the Cuban collar shirt.  

What are the features of a Cuban collar shirt?

There are several features that characterise the Cuban shirt, the most recognisable being the traditional four patch pockets on the front. Legend has it that these were created for carrying guayabas (Spanish for guavas), where its name could also have derived from. Another feature is the two stripes of embroidery placed vertically on the front.  

As its origins suggest, the shirt is best suited for warm locations, so it’s usually made from lightweight fabrics such as cotton and linen and finished with a straight hem for a casual, untucked look. 

When it comes to the collar, the first designs had a mandarin collar (an unfolded collar standing up). For warm climates this version wasn’t the most optimal option, so it evolved to what we call now the Cuban (or camp) collar – a double-notched, flat laying collar.  

Are Guayaberas worn today?

Although the traditional two-pocket, vertically embroidered guayabera shirt are still seen today, the most famous remains are the Cuban collared shirts. Rocked by Elvis Presley, James Bond, Spiderman and The Talented Mr. Ripley alike, this style is versatile, easy to wear and your perfect summer companion.

How to style a Cuban collar shirt

Due to the looser fit and dropped collar, Cuban collar shirts are traditionally styled in a more casual fashion. However, that doesn’t mean they can’t be worn for relaxed destination weddings – paired with a linen suit and suede loafers, you’ll exude carefree Cuban style. Try a pure white Cuban collar shirt with a warm toned suit like the copper linen for a bit of contrast. 

For a paired-back leisurely look, however, choose one in a solid summery colour like sage or taupe and combine with a pair of pleated shorts for a bit of structure. In the heart of summer, pure linen or linen blends are your best bet, offering breathability and lightness. Our linen blends are slightly looser and have more drape, while the linens are still light but offer a bit more structure. 

If you want to take it up a notch, go for a printed Cuban collar shirt. These are great for occasions where you want to make a statement or want to play around with colour. Our take features a striking landscape print and is crafted from a loose, drapey fabric which has a super soft handfeel, making it ideal for balmy summer evenings. Pair with navy shorts and neutral loafers to offset the deep blue tones. 

For a bit of texture, knitted Cuban collar shirts will add a shot of interest to your look. Our crochet shirt is crafted from sustainable cotton and features an intricate pattern that looks great with a neutral bottom. Wear it open on its own, with a vest underneath or button it up when the sun goes down. 

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Look after it and it’ll return the favour.

LOOK AFTER IT AND IT’LL RETURN THE FAVOUR

Words: A. Fozzard

Is it better to wash or dry clean linen?

Can linen go in the dryer?

As long as your linen suit hasn’t been through an intensive drying process, it shouldn’t shrink much at all – especially if you’ve taken it to a dry cleaner with a good track record. You might find that it feels a bit tighter when you first put it on, but it should loosen within half an hour or so.

Can you get stains out of linen?

Trousers are trending – and these are the shapes to bring your wardrobe up to date.

SEE OUR FULL TROUSERS FIT GUIDE

Worker chinos

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The styles that will set you up this spring – by the people who brought them to you.

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— Hettie Keough, Junior Buyer

“This is constructed from a technical fabric by Japanese textile specialist, Takisada, and is very lightweight with a crisp hand feel. It’s modern and pared back, featuring technical stretch and refined details such as tonal zippers and poppers. This is a key transeasonal look, perfect for layering.” 

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— Yasmin McPherson, Junior Buyer

“As fashion continues to lend itself to an increasingly relaxed silhouette, we have introduced our beach trousers. With a straight, wide leg, this style is a smart but breezy option for warm weather.” 

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— David Hursey, Junior Buyer

“Woven and printed in Como, Italy before being made into ties in the south, our SS24 Tessitura Bottinelli collection offers some fifteen designs to choose from, each of which can be matched back to our key seasonal tailoring. All designs are also available as pocket squares for those who like to match this to their tie, however I’d recommend pairing the patterned ties with the plain hanks, or vice-versa. They’re all made from a beautifully soft, dry-handle silk, allowing for that perfect four-in-hand knot and dimple, and a pocket square that stays in place. Everything you could want from your accessories for summer weddings.” 

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What to wear to beat the heat.

WHAT TO WEAR TO BEAT THE HEAT

Words: A. Fozzard

LINEN

SEERSUCKER

COTTON

TWEED

FLANNEL

The suit’s still going strong for autumn/winter 23, reconfigured for now with softer structures and relaxed details.

This season’s suits are made for summer’s more leisurely pace with un-done structures, airy fabrics and relaxed details. Whether you’re heading to a summer wedding, or just need to refresh your warm-weather wardrobe, we’ve got all the tailoring you need for the warmer days ahead.

Neutral tones

A hint of colour

Red is also having a moment this season. This port flannel suit looks great with silvers and whites, but can be combined with pinkier tones if you’re feeling particularly bold.

Cut to a tailored fit with a double-breasted closure, it easily smartens up your event wardrobe. And with added stretch for extra comfort, you’ll be at-ease all night.

 

Airy linen

A summer tailoring collection isn’t complete without a linen suit. Light and breathable, they’re ideal for warm-weather events where you’ll be wearing them all day long. Cut to a flattering slim fit, our navy matte linen suit offers a smart, summer alternative to flannel and tweed and comes with a matching waistcoat for extra refinement.

The linen is also blended with Sorona®, a plant-based fibre that offers extra softness and stretch and reduces creasing. Combine with a non-iron shirt and a knitted tie for an elegant finish.

 

Classic stripes

Pinstripes get an Italian twist with our navy stripe suit. With pure wool hailing from Barberis, the world-famous mill based in Como, Italy, its textured surface gives the appearance of linen while offering a level of breathability too.

Cut to a classic tailored fit with the addition of a waistcoat, pair with a crisp white shirt and patterned tie if you’re going for the classic feel. For a tonal look, add a denim shirt.

 

 

The all-rounder

A must-have in your summer wardrobe, the army green performance suit will take you from wedding days to evening events with ease. Featuring a water, stain and crease resistant coating, it’ll have you looking smart all day long, regardless of the weather.  Wear as a two-piece to work, adding the matching waistcoat for a more formal affair.

 

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HERE’S WHY YOU WANT BOUCLE’S ULTRA-TACTILE TEXTURE IN YOUR WARDROBE

It might be trending, but bouclé has long been adding rich texture to clothes. Hailing from the French word ‘boucler’ which means ‘to curl’, bouclé is made from a fleecy, looped yarn and has long been used in tailoring, knits and furniture alike.

BUT WHAT IS BOUCLÉ?

As mentioned, bouclé is all about texture. It’s spun with double-twisted yarns of different lengths and thicknesses, creating small loops that give it a nubby appearance. Despite this, bouclé has a very soft handle and has traditionally been used in knitwear for this reason –however, a more micro take gives a subtly disrupted texture to this summer’s suits and tailored jackets.

WHAT DOES BOUCLÉ LOOK LIKE?

There are many different types of bouclé. Some, like our slouchy crew neck, are woven into larger loops resulting in a laidback rugged-ness, while our zip neck polo shirts have a slightly finer structure while still adding a level of interest.

Other types feature two or more coloured yarns, creating an eye-catching finish that really brings out the loops and twists of the weave. This can also result in pieces that look striped or checked, a technique that was heavily popularised by fashion house Chanel.

HOW SHOULD I WEAR BOUCLÉ?

The good thing about bouclé is that it can we worn all year round. Due to its breathability and moisture-wicking abilities, it works well in the warmer months as part of lighter knits and suiting, like our taupe white houndstooth suit (a great contender for all those summer weddings you’ve got lined up). In the winter however, it’s insulating qualities will keep you warm as part of a thick knit or thicker coat.

Ease into softened tailoring and lighter fabrics.

HOW TO WEAR THIS TRANSEASONAL STAPLE

Words: C. Saramowicz

 

Lightweight and warm with endless ways to style it, the liner jacket has become a fundamental piece of any transitional wardrobe. Though the name suggests it’s part of the outerwear family, this versatile garment can be worn in more ways than one.

So what is a liner jacket, and how can you style it? Read on to find out.

 

What is a liner jacket?

Originally worn as a thermal layer underneath military overcoats, the liner jacket is a thin, often padded jacket that helps lock in body heat without weighing you down. In recent years, it began being worn as a standalone piece and is now worn throughout the year, whatever the season.

Liner jackets are crafted from a range of fabrics – polyester, nylon and wool to name a few – and feature nods to classic military construction such as visible padding and patch pockets. They are also often collarless as a way to make them more compact and easier to wear under thicker coats.

 

How do I style a liner jacket?

Due to its lightweight construction, liner jackets can be worn in a wealth of ways. It’s also the perfect layering piece, seeing you through the transitional periods when you’re not quite sure what to wear.

In the warmer months, throw it over a lightweight tee and you’ve got an airy jacket, adding a bit of interest and texture to a casual look. As the weather cools, swap out the t-shirt for a thicker knit like a merino roll neck or a crew neck jumper to hunker down in. Then, when winter really hits, layer under a thick coat for the perfect mid-layer – the quilted design will trap warm pockets of air and keep you extra toasty.

Not sure what separates a half-canvas construction from a full-canvas one? We can help.

What is half-canvas construction?

What is full-canvas construction?